Am Classic micro 58 isn’t that expensive. That hub to a 24 count kinlin xr-200 would be nice and light (and reasonably inexpensive).
Kinlin XR-200 $55 390 grams
Micro 58 $100 58 grams
24 Sapim CX-RAY $72 105 grams
24 Nipples $10 7.5 grams
Total: $237 560.5 grams
QFT
I’d stick to the wheel count of 2.[/quote]
Sound advice.
Wheels. Reynolds. Period.
I also have the Selle Italia 135g seat on my road build (sub 15lb Cannondale with aluminum bars) It also has no weight limit.
I recommend Reynolds wheels
USE Alien seat post
Italia 135g seat.
Thats a good start.
[table]
[tr][td]Kinlin XR-200[/td][td]$55.00[/td][td]390[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]Am Classic Micro 58[/td][td]$100.00[/td][td]58[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]24 Sapim CX-RAY[/td][td]$72.00[/td][td]105[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]24 Alloy Nipples[/td][td]$10.00[/td][td]7.5[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]Front Total[/td][td]$237.00[/td][td]560.5[/td][/tr]
[/table][table]
[tr][td]Kinlin XR-200[/td][td]$55.00[/td][td]390[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]American Classic Track Hub[/td][td]$150.00[/td][td]180[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]DT Revolution 24ct[/td][td]$32.00[/td][td]106[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]Alloy Nipples 24ct[/td][td]$7.50[/td][td]10[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]RearTotal[/td][td]$244.50[/td][td]686[/td][/tr]
[/table][table]
[tr][td]TotalCost/Weight[/td][td]$481.50[/td][td]1246.5[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Tables… ugly!
the above is interesting, although im curious why the rear would use different spokes that only weigh one additional gram, but cost $40 less. Same thing with the nipples.
Wheels and frame is what counts the most. My race bike is right around 15 without any carbon besides the legs of the fork. It helps that I started with a 3 pound frame instead of a 5 pound one. I’m not using anything on the bike at all that would qualify as WW (dura-ace crank and HF hubs, aluminum bar/stem/post).
Aeroheads are a good balance between weight/durability/cost.
Halbritt is dead on about the AMclassic hubs. Lightest way to go for sure with off the shelf stuff. I have seen some really WW climbing fixed gears use an AMclassic front disc hub with a custom axle and bolt on cog that comes out even lighter than the stock rear hub though.
Thomson Masterpiece is a good post to look at. Lighter than many carbon ones.
For what it’s worth, Mike Garcia (noted WW wheelbuilder) steered me away from AC Micro 58 hubs. Then again, I’m a heavy guy. Also, Aeroheads are often WAY HEAVIER than their claimed weight. I have a rim that checks out at 480 grams, 55 grams more than the claimed weight. Velocity is one of the worst offenders when it comes to misleading customers with low claimed weights.
I would recommend buying a low spoke count pre-built front road wheel. A Campy Proton is pretty light and CHEAP. Neuvation has several super light and CHEAP front wheels as well. The rear is where it gets tricky…
cx-rays are aero
[quote=bradencbc]Wheels and frame is what counts the most. My race bike is right around 15 without any carbon besides the legs of the fork. It helps that I started with a 3 pound frame instead of a 5 pound one. I’m not using anything on the bike at all that would qualify as WW (dura-ace crank and HF hubs, aluminum bar/stem/post).
Aeroheads are a good balance between weight/durability/cost.
Halbritt is dead on about the AMclassic hubs. Lightest way to go for sure with off the shelf stuff. I have seen some really WW climbing fixed gears use an AMclassic front disc hub with a custom axle and bolt on cog that comes out even lighter than the stock rear hub though.
Thomson Masterpiece is a good post to look at. Lighter than many carbon ones.[/quote]
What wheels?
Also:
This thread has made me crazy. For some reason, component shuffling to achieve minimum weight keeps me entertained for hours.
[quote=frankstoneline]Also:
This thread has made me crazy. For some reason, component shuffling to achieve minimum weight keeps me entertained for hours.[/quote]i’ve been playing with wheel weights for weeks for a good set of training wheels for the tarck bike.
[quote=rabbi][quote=frankstoneline]Also:
This thread has made me crazy. For some reason, component shuffling to achieve minimum weight keeps me entertained for hours.[/quote]i’ve been playing with wheel weights for weeks for a good set of training wheels for the tarck bike.[/quote]
train on heavy wheels, race on light ones.
[quote=frankstoneline][quote=rabbi][quote=frankstoneline]Also:
This thread has made me crazy. For some reason, component shuffling to achieve minimum weight keeps me entertained for hours.[/quote]i’ve been playing with wheel weights for weeks for a good set of training wheels for the tarck bike.[/quote]
train on heavy wheels, race on light ones.[/quote]i’m tired of doing road training rides on deep v’s.
i race at the drome w/a zipp 440 and a zip disc.
they’d also be for doing organized road rides/races. last year i did the ms150 w/veeps. i’m pretty sure i can conserve a lot of energy by getting lighter wheels. shit, i switched from some 28’s to some 23’s and the difference in rotating weight is amazing.
well you can’t. plenty of people have done the numbers and not all that much energy goes into accelerating your wheels.
you can do better than deepvs but rotating weight doesn’t actually mean that much when it comes down to it.
There are lightweight 28s and 25s. A good 28 should be 20-25 grams heavier than a 25 and that should be 20-25 grams heavier than a 23. There aren’t many lightweight racing 28s, but there are plenty of 25s. 23 will give an aero benefit, but a 25 will likely offer better rolling resistance.
CX-Rays up front. Light, strong, aero, and expensive as hell. I’ve spec’d a 24 spoke front for that build, but realistically, a light person could go with fewer spokes for a racing wheel. That combination is <1300grams for <$500 which is pretty much unheard of.
just cut out every other spoke on your veeps with a pair of wire cutters.
boutique!
There are lightweight 28s and 25s. A good 28 should be 20-25 grams heavier than a 25 and that should be 20-25 grams heavier than a 23. There aren’t many lightweight racing 28s, but there are plenty of 25s. 23 will give an aero benefit, but a 25 will likely offer better rolling resistance.[/quote]i should have put the difference in rotating wieght + less rolling resistace is amazing
well you can’t. plenty of people have done the numbers and not all that much energy goes into accelerating your wheels.
you can do better than deepvs but rotating weight doesn’t actually mean that much when it comes down to it.[/quote]some of the climbs on the rides i do are a good 12% and i’m relatively sure a lighter bike goes up them faster with the same effort. or up the same speed with less effort
This is my current project:
I think its around 3.5kg right now, with the right wheelset it should be pretty light!
[quote=rabbi]i should have put the difference in rotating wieght + less rolling resistace is amazing
some of the climbs on the rides i do are a good 12% and i’m relatively sure a lighter bike goes up them faster with the same effort. or up the same speed with less effort[/quote]
Between similiar 28s and 23s the 28s will have lower rolling resistance.
On a climb absolute weight matters not rotating weight. 200g on your wheels is the same as 200g anywhere else.
[quote=olebole]This is my current project:
I think its around 3.5kg right now, with the right wheelset it should be pretty light![/quote]
New cranks ASAP. No self-respecting weight weenie would ride Omniums.
I know you want to have Omnium cranks for your Omnium frame, but…