WW-ish tarck build any thoughts?

[quote=dutret][quote=rabbi]i should have put the difference in rotating wieght + less rolling resistace is amazing

some of the climbs on the rides i do are a good 12% and i’m relatively sure a lighter bike goes up them faster with the same effort. or up the same speed with less effort[/quote]

Between similiar 28s and 23s the 28s will have lower rolling resistance.

On a climb absolute weight matters not rotating weight. 200g on your wheels is the same as 200g anywhere else.[/quote]28c t-servs to 23c conti ultra-race rear gp4000 front = less rolling resistance.

Heh. Yeah, gp4000 vs. t-serves, most def. For a given tire at a given pressure, the larger tire will have less rolling resistance. Smaller tires often have less rolling resistance and less comfort due to much higher pressures.

I think too much can be made of rotational weight. The only time it effects performance is when accelerating (both speeding up and slowing down). When traveling at a constant velocity, rotating weight does not effect performance, but it does effect overall weight.

There are lightweight 28s and 25s. A good 28 should be 20-25 grams heavier than a 25 and that should be 20-25 grams heavier than a 23. There aren’t many lightweight racing 28s, but there are plenty of 25s. 23 will give an aero benefit, but a 25 will likely offer better rolling resistance.[/quote]i should have put the difference in rotating wieght + less rolling resistace is amazing

well you can’t. plenty of people have done the numbers and not all that much energy goes into accelerating your wheels.
you can do better than deepvs but rotating weight doesn’t actually mean that much when it comes down to it.[/quote]some of the climbs on the rides i do are a good 12% and i’m relatively sure a lighter bike goes up them faster with the same effort. or up the same speed with less effort[/quote]

This has been mentioned before, but weight is weight when it comes to climbing.
ultimately you can probably cut weight elsewhere than just in a wheelset, and if it’s a training track wheelset just get cxp 22’s or something.

I dont like this thread.
I rode down stairs on my steel conversion.
ayhsmb

I ride down stairs on my blingy road bike occasionally.

I do wheelies on my Ellsworth.
NBD.

While it wont be the lightest available I found what I believe to be last years model AC track hubs in 28hole f&r for $125, weighing 110 & 180 grams respectively. Dimension hubs seem to be just below 500 grams for the pair and around $80-90 for a set.

Where did you find those? I’ve been trying to find some cheap 24 hole AC track hubs.

scratch that. they way they were listed was quite misleading.

[quote=conor]also, i am going to build the heaviest bike i can. suggestions?

where can i get that rebar stuff time was talking about?[/quote]

[quote=frankstoneline][quote=rabbi][quote=frankstoneline]Also:
This thread has made me crazy. For some reason, component shuffling to achieve minimum weight keeps me entertained for hours.[/quote]i’ve been playing with wheel weights for weeks for a good set of training wheels for the tarck bike.[/quote]

train on heavy wheels, race on light ones.[/quote]

A watt is a watt. The only sound argument for training on heavy wheels is they are sometimes more durable. But I would say that 105 hubs laced to deep v’s are no more durable than DT Swiss hubs laced to DT Swiss 1.1 rims if both are built well.

From my perspective, “heavy” wheels are just normal spoke count wheels which are often lighter than the cheaper lower spoke count wheels like kysrium equipe, or whatever the hell alex things that people put on cheap road bikes now.

this.
Sheldon has an interesting article on this.
if I wasnt lazy I’d dig it out.

Agreed. I would take my 28 hold dt swiss / dura ace wheels over just about any factory built wheel regardless of occasion.

So I got my frame.
06 Felt Tk2 w/carbon fork.
Depending on the weight I might swap out the fork for a full carbon one.

Anyone know what the weights of various track cranks in 170mm are?

These seem interesting. Available on ebay for $250 shipped w/chainring. This one is listed as 809g which I assume includes the ring, since they are sold together.

Plus bottom bracket, which makes that a fairly heavy crankset.

The two lightest track-specific cranksets I’ve come across (165mm) are Dura-Ace 7600 (480g) and Ofmega Mistral (453g). Pair either of these with a 3/32" ring and you’re in business.

The Dura-Ace 7610 bb is heavy as hell though (300ish grams), so I swapped it out for a TA Axix Light Pro Ti BB (170 grams). The Ofmega Mistral is hard to find but goes with a 111mm ISO bb. Token makes a very light one Ti spindle one. If you’re racing on the track though, you might not want Ti. So go for the Campy Pista bottom bracket, which weighs in at 220ish grams.

If you’re racing, the best high-end matched setup is the Dura-Ace 7710 setup. The cranks are just over 500 grams (claimed) and the bottom bracket is about 175 grams (claimed). Get a 3/32" ring, and you’ll be in business.

Halbritt is right. Those FSA track cranks are not a weight weenie’s friend.

I run a full carbon fork on the street, and I love it. But I also know that the rake on the stock Felt TK2 fork is 25. Good luck finding an all carbon fork in that rake at a reasonable price.

someone on bikeforums once claimed he could build a sub-10pound track bike using a njs frame, and ordinary (not “stupid” light) components.

in fact it was ceya

it never happened

ceya was full of all sorts of shit.

If you’re going for light track cranks are probably a bad idea.