https://www.raleighusa.com/lorry
should I buy this?
Had it for about a month, it’s fine. The stock bars and saddle are horrid, as are the tires. Rack is nominally rated for 25lbs max, but it seems sturdy?
I’m putting Big Apples on it next, along with fender flaps. I’ve alrwady put a c17 on, and some Ritchey risers with Ervin grips. Probably going to put a Pletscher two leg kickstand on to replace the stock one.
With a 19 gallon storage tub attached to the rack, it handles like a dream, if you dream about cumbersome things. But a weeks groceries don’t change the handling at all, so it gets the job done.
One note: the first few corners are freaky as hell, because you’re unused to the lack of visual cues that the bike is turning.
So I’m probably going to try a minivelo cycletruck at some point, but for about $750 for bike and necessary part swaps, it’s a good .
Hey, omnium makes a mini velo cargo frame. If the pricing works for you I could add it to my order of a large omnium frame delivered to west coast
Kinda curious about this thing:
http://donkybike.com/gallery/
I don’t have any numbers to back this up, but a cycletruck based around a horizontal beam seems like it might work better than one with a rack cantilevered off the downtube
Is there an established way to move where a rack mounts to the dropouts? I want to move it on my basketbike a little bit back and up. I have the struts all the way in and the rack is still angled.
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can you rotate the rack top closer to the seatstay? Alternately, can you use an adapter to make the dropout mount point a little higher (would a disc caliper adapter work?)
Also if you’re going for a cargo setup, a two-legged kickstand will make everything work much better.
P clamps or make new struts?
Attach the stays on the top of the rack and drill new holes in the part of them that attach to the seatstay bosses?
Something like this? mount blockyboi to the rack where the current struts do, and if there are more straight-er struts available, you can get the rack much closer to the seatstays. assuming the dropout will suffer the angle change of the vertical member on the rack, that is.
I’ll try this. With the struts on the bottom, they are inserted to the point where the 90* turn is against the rack.
I can’t do the struts above the rack. Trying not to spend more money on this. Tried some struts will longer bolt slots and it’s closer, probably good enough. There’s room on the strut to drill a hole on the seatstay end of the it to bring it closer, but I’ve done enough dithering for one day.
Didn’t think of the two legged kickstand. The current one struggled with just a light in the basket.
easy, just get out the chainstay stretcher.
I know your’e not tryin to spend money, but those racks did come in different sizes, you need one with more setback. The one you have was meant for a smaller frame.
Easiest solution IMO would be to put some spacers between the underside of the rack and the struts. Space them low enough that where the strut is twisted no longer fouls on the rack. You will likely need longer screws in addition to the spacers. May also want to drill new holes in the rack top.
Alternately, if you drill new holes further rearward in the rack top, you could add a double bend to the struts to get them to clear the deck.
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buy a Pletscher two leg and tell me if you like it.
I have on on my Kogswell and it works fine but the front likes to flop with any load (or no load because the cetma rack weighs 10000 grams).
If the twist fouls the platform, move the twist.
Oh, yeah. Drill new holes closer to the twist, then cut off the excess and old holes. Should give plenty of room.
Cool, this is going on a Raleigh Lorry cycletruck, so no flopping. The included kickstand is about as good as you’d expect to come on a 600 buck complete bike.
I think I’m going to try the spacers. If I can find a better drill, put a hole in the struts where the front mounting holes are, only using the second set now and it’s at the end of the slots.