Looks solid, especially with the star ratchet upgrade.
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I went out yesterday and got after it on a trail that I have been scared of for 3 years (BLT at exit 27). 3 years ago I went down it with some friendsā¦ it was way over my head and all I really remembered was walking almost all of it and having a bad time.
I went back out to it yesterday and rode every feature except one without hesitation. Most of the things were drops out of corners or with terrible run ins/outs, including a big slow rock drop thing that is totally the biggest drop Ive done. It felt good to think through them and then hit them. There was a lot of compression management to keep from bouncing out of control on the run outsā¦ Maybe if I had a bigger bike it would have easier, the key next time may be to turn rebound all the way down. I would rather get harsh in roots/small steps at the bottom of my shock/fork than catch a weird bounce after a big drop.
Anyway, feeling shreddy, crashed twice but in a good way you know?
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Oh Shit! I forgot to say, it is hard to undersell how big of a difference the new fork makesit isnt unreasonable to say that this new fork makes my bike 30% more sendy. It really stands up in the travel and feels plush compared to my old one which I can now say fell through 50%+ of its travel on a lot of stuff before ramping up and getting harsh at the bottom. It also seems to really push me up out of a pre-load, not in a pogo kind of wayā¦ but just getting way more volume out of a pre-load. Iām fucking amped.
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Hey Nu MTB-ers. Iām shopping for a better shock for my (2020 Trek Fuel EX5) frame. 210x55, regular mounting eyes.
When looking at secondhand shocks do I need to be concerned with the ātuneā the shock has or what bike it originally came from?
Edit: for the curious my bike currently has a RockShox Deluxe Select Plus, a basic air shock with open or fully locked out settings and rebound adjust. My goal is something that I can set up to pedal better so I spend less time reaching for the lockout switch on rollers. Also maybe something that can handle my 240lbs better.
You probably just need to add some volume spacers to change the ramp rate of the shock. The Deluxe+ has the external reservoir, which should help with any heat-related issues.
I was running a plain Fox Float CTD when I weighed 260, but I had the air can almost at max pressure. It probably needs a bit of testing/tuning to get it dialed in for you.
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Cheap start would be volume spacers.
You could look at fox dpx2 or the fox dps as they have a middle setting for trail or maybe better pedaling. Maybe dvo topaz.
The super deluxes are as also like you state, basically open or climbing only.
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i can check if terk has some of their āreaktivā shocks available. they work pretty well but i donāt know much about squish. i just know it feels pretty good in āmediumā
Thanks yāall. Iām looking at used stuff on pinkbike (mostly because of price), thereās plenty available in the size I need including like-new takeoffs. The only real question is if I could take a shock from say a Stumpjumper and put it on my Fuel and have the valving or whatever work OK with the different suspension design.
My DPX2 is basically open or closed. The middle setting does fuck all. The CTD was basically the same way.
That Penske Racing jawn?
yeah that one. from what i hear it makes pretty ok suspension kinematics perform like really good ones. but suspension details is pretty beyond my pale beyond 34>32 and pike>rekon type details
Not much to having it work besides steerer length, matching up the fork length (140 or 160 mm or whatever) and a similar rake. After that it is mostly personal preference.
Weird. Mine works fine, same for wife. Could be just outside their range if you had to have it at max.
Any idea how much retune could cost for him? I imagine that would help.
Putting a large token in would give the air spring an almost linear response, so that would be the best place to start before looking for a revalve.
Pedal bob has a lot to do with the linkage, though. Iāve heard of people eliminating the bob just by changing the chainring size. My Norco had quite a bit of bob, but my Rocky Mountain doesnāt seem to have as much. Theyāre both 4-bar linkage, so 
.
Getting a factory rebuild for a shock usually runs around a katu. Since a revalve is basically the same thing, I would guess it would be roughly the same price.
Talking about rear shock, not fork babby.
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oh i dum lol
just get a dpx2. Worked for me! Maybe completely obvious but find a take-off from a higher-end Trek Fuel if you donāt want to get a bit weird. But, damn, Fox shit rules.
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Jimmy, I have been running my shock at 40% sag forever b/c I am little and I could and it felt real softā¦ but it pedaled like shit. Today was testing it out at 30% and was surprised at how much better it felt pedaling. Try more air first? Mine ended up being body weight + 30lbs
The only reason to pay attention to air pressure is to help in setting sag quickly. The number of air molecules in your can means shit, getting the suspension where it needs to be to do its job correctly is where itās at. Then figure out what damping feels right to you. And of course even that only matters for one rider, one bike, and one trail. The rules for suspension are to play with everything as much as you can and take repeatable measurements. Clicks closed, millimeters sag.
Unless itās some low end rockshox, replace with fox.
Jimmy are you already flirting with the maximum pressure of the shock?
paradoxically adding spacer tokens to reduce the air volume has you use lower pressures, giving you back adjustment room while making the spring rate more progressive
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