ShartQ about MTB fit. I know that long reach is the hotness, but if you’re nearly t-rex shaped, do you just size down from where you would have been sized previously? Or is it just that stems have no length now and that covers it?
I ride a 57/8cm on the road purely for the stack, and wind up using an 80mm stem when I’m being honest with myself. With less setback my stack need goes through the roof.
The reach thing is weird, because the seat tube is shoved so far forwards now that it negates most of the potential change in distance to the handlebars.
My 2016 Jeffsy had 28mm less reach than my current Banshee Phantom, but the seat was also about an inch further back. So my distance from my hips the bars is about the same as it was before.
I have a little more stack now, 20mm more tops, but some of that is because I’m fat and out of shape.
Funny thing is I do the opposite as you. I’m a slightly long legged person with slightly short arms (i.e. my arm span is 2 inches less than my height) and I do a smaller road bike for reach reasons, but always end up having the bars up kinda high to make it fit. I could go with a bigger size and a tiny stem, but the reach always still feels so long. So I ride a 54cm road bike and a size large mtb.
For me, the top tube length is still a big factor in sizing. The reaches are have changed to compensate for steeper seat tube angles, but the feel sitting on the bike still comes down to TT length. Don’t worry about setting setback off the BB position like you do on a road bike, your whole position will just be further forward than you’re used to and it takes some adjustment.
I would not recommend sizing down because you will loose stack. Ride the size that works length wise, then add some riser bars if you need more stack. Stems are all gonna be like 35-45mm on a trail bike so you dont have a lot of opportunity to go shorter.
You can even go full rusty fit with bars instead of a spacer stack.
That’s great, I didn’t realize this was accepted practice for MTB
Just keep in mind that higher bars does change handling a bit, but you’re more dynamic in position on the mtb, so you just need to occasionally pivot forward to grab more front wheel traction on steep climbs and bend the elbows a bit more for front wheel grip on descents.
You can thank Dakotah Norton for paving the way for high rise bars to be cool again.
If you don’t pass the bike check at the trailhead they won’t let you ride
Forget those bars! This is your chance to BMX in style.
Neat thing too is most of these alt bars have more backsweep, which might even mitigate your reach issues even more.
[edit: I sounded like a dick to amy before]
I have those on my DJ and they’re so good. It really makes it feel like I’m 50/50 on each wheel compared to the stock 800mm wide shorties.
I actually saw those bars when looking to decrease reach on the Endpoint, so maybe.
I vaguely recall a time where getting less stack was a concern, but I guess it must have been primarily for XC pros. I naively figured that was most of the market for mountain bars (flat flat flat). My lack of flexibility and long torso effectively set my fit to “dutch” if I don’t have 8cm of setback.
I like the z2 on my Nukeproof better than the Fox 34 on my Niner. They’re both Fox 34’s, really, but I think the Marzocchi version might be a bit heavier and stiffer as a result. They’re both good, but I can feel the 34 flex a bit under hard braking on steep bits.
Got this jawn incoming. Gonna move my stumpy evo parts over. But will need new headset and drooper for now.
Trying to figure out how to add a bit of flair. Thinking maybe some turquoise stem and other small accents (already have stem on said stumpy). did see burgtec has turq udh to really balance it out.
Other thoughts were purple, but that ish is really hard to nail down with varying annos.
I think I was enjoying my ice cream truck because my Norco FS’s suspension was totally shitted because I didn’t have a decent shock pump. It was riding like crap and then I got a new pump and aired front and rear up to the right pressures and all of a sudden I can clear rock gardens again and I love this bike!
Wrecked my rear tire yesterday. Don’t know if it is time to raise pressure or whether I burped then slammed but I’ve got air coming out of the bead tire interface and the bead is slightly swollen. This is the coil’s fault.
If I’m enjoying the Maxxis Rekons I currently have, but want to go tanwall for vanity, any reason to try another tire or just go with what I know I currently like? Also, should I bump the front or both or neither from 2.4 to 2.6? Trails around here are very chunky/sharp/rocky, dust on firm, bits of sand
Hmm do minions come in tanwall 
This might interest you: Maxxis Forekaster Review - BIKEPACKING.com
I feel like tires above 2.5 just get unnecessarily balloon-y and their ride quality gets worse in certain conditions. I would stick to 2.4s. There’s a reason “plus” size is basically dead and 2.6 is at the very bottom of that territory IMO.
I run a 2.5 front and a 2.4 rear fwiw.
The riders weight has a lot to do with this math
Hover around 160lbs declothed
I’d stick with the 2.4 WT options from Maxxis. They play really well with the wide Ibis rims. Maybe run an insert too, which I also recommend for @Crustradamus instead of airing up more.
