Did they literally file the fork until it would fit that crown race?
I know crown race cutters and reamers aren’t cheap, but also that’s why you go to a bike shop. So they can do shit that you can’t. Like use a crown race cutter and/or headtube reamer.
Maybe I’m being a bike shop snob, but I guess I do want my mechanic to be a snob about what tools they are willing to use to make irreversible changes to my frame and fork.
seconding/thirding/whatevering everyone; I’ll do janky shit like that when I’m doing my own work to a beater bike I own when I don’t have the right tool, but at least if you’re a tinkerer or aspiring tinkerer the whole point of bringing the thing to a shop is so they will use the right tool and get things right when doing the thing that can possibly fuck up your frame/fork.
I’ll definitely see how it all goes, though I’m not rushing to take it to a different shop to take it back apart, have them ream it right and put it back together.
In the interim I am debating whether or not I should blow $110 for 26x2.1 gravel kings for this thing, as the Mach SSs on it do not seem long for this world.
I put a set on those Michelins on my niece’s bike and they are
The 26" nice but cheap tire street-ish selection has gotten absolutely hammered lately , I’m building up an old Diamond Back for my nephew and it took me several days to find something decent that wasn’t over $40.
You guys got this all wrong… He absolutely needs SWIFTTIRE RIPP JOHNSON JRs
I actually put these on my girlfriend’s bike. She doesn’t ride far or fast and they have been perfect for that. I can provide no other feedback except the price is right.
But also the kevlar bead versions do seem supple, if one can figure out how to get exactly that version and not the wire bead from the mystery ebay vendors selling these tires.