Did you just ShartQ?

I’ve had a range of LB rims from 36-55mm, all kinda around the same width. All are great. I get the cheap ones, not the Falcon Elite or whatever

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That’s how I know it’s time for my 350’s ratchet service. 10 mins later I’m good for another year with no special tool. And yeah, am one of those who now seems to have a lifetime supply of the pink grease. Lately I’ve been getting mine from Germany sellers along with Magura and Schmidt stuff. Haven’t tried the newer EXP ratchet - just the original in the 18t for gravel; 36t for mtb.

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I’ve just got a set of the Falcon Pro. They’re wavy, ostensibly have a better finish and are stronger for the weight, but I can’t tell the difference.

I also have a range from 24mm deep to 56mm deep. They’re all great, but I will say there’s some discernible improved comfort with the shallower ones.

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i flipped the wheel around and it appeared to be centered at the chainstays and the seatstays, which i guess means dish is fucky and not frame.

but THEN i flipped it back to fixed, except put it on the 17t instead of the 20t (surly dingle cog) and now it sits centered between chainstay and seatstay?

whats this witchery.

You had it in the dropouts crooked

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Does anyone have thoughts about dutch style ring shaped wheel locks like this thing?

It would be nice to have a way to quickly freelock my bullitt, something I do all the time, without faffing about with my main lock.

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I have a ABUS lock like that on my Lorry and it works well enough. Not sure it’s the most secure thing because the metal in the strap mounts is pretty thin, so it might be more of a deterrent than anything. I’ve only used mine in combination with another lock or two. If your frame has got actual mounts for a lock that’s even better.

If you don’t want to leave your keys in it while it’s open, make sure to get a non-retaining lock (the one you linked is). A lot of them are key retaining locks.

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We had this specific lock as well as some others for the bike share I was managing. They work fine, the shackle and mounting plate are made with some sort of low-chromium stainless so they either slowly rust or develop white chalky corrosion depending on the season. Probably not an issue if your bike isn’t outside 24/7.

Other than that they seemed to work fine, the shackle is hard enough that it couldn’t be cut with bolt cutters and there was a specific place on the body to cut to get it off. But’s it’s not a quick process anyway. Very secure ATMO.

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Nvm I’m ditching this shitty pump

Who can make stickers and who wants to make me some RAISE HELL AND PRAISE DALE stickers for bike frames?

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SMOKE PLANT AND PRAISE GRANT (?)

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Yeah I guess if you want

The rear wheel on my friends 80s mtb commuter keeps coming out of the drop outs. Happened this morning near my apartment so she came by and I took the wheel off…nothing looked weird but the QR was old and shitty so I swapped it out and put the wheel on. Seemed fine.

She just texted me and it fell off again. Not sure what’s going on.

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Are the axles sticking out past the dropout plates? Had a weird catch for that once at the campus bike shop and the qr wouldn’t tighten correctly.

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Chrome dropouts?

Time for a nutted axle.

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Nah. Axle wasn’t sticking past the dropout.

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There’s also some single speed chain tensioners that have a little tab sticking into the dropout. I use some redline jawns on all of my horizontally dropped qr axled bikes otherwise I can’t get through a single ride without the wheel moving.

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This might be the way. I’m building her up a literal Crosscheck soon but want to keep her rolling till then.

shimano qr with serrated faces?

check the locknuts, if they’re not knurly slippage might happen

if it’s just a campus bike, tighten the qr with a babby cheater bar or something

This is probably it.

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