Anybody fried a WI CLD rear hub bearings? I think it might be the cassette body? What’s it sound like? @EndpointBraden
Alternatively, I think I also fried another DA 9000 bb
Those have a much shorter service life than DT in my experience. It’s, of course, the outboard ones that go first and will feel harsh if turning the axle by hand. But if you’re taking it apart, you may as well do them all. Inboard freehub is a special double row one.
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I knew you were going to say that and that was my thought.
Lots of stuff going on with this bike rn.
What are my options for 165mm nerdcranks besides, like, GRX 46/30? I was hoping to get on Easton Cinch but they don’t have a 165 option.
Rotor Aldhu goes down to 150mm!
And the cheaper Rotor Vegast is available in 165.
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try the 150, that Appleman article on crank length got me curious about short cranks, but I want to hear from someone else before I jump into that whole deal.
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It turns out it’s an expensive proposition to decide to change crank length on a whole fleet. We’re at 3 x Aldhu in 155mm lengthway this spring. But it seems to have solved a hip problem for my wife and 155 was probably the appropriate length all along. She refers to it as “the short tax.”
I’m curious to try the 165 cast-offs at some point. Then I’ll probably sell them here, but no 46/30s.
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Oh for sure. If I can score some shorty cranks I’m going to try it, but it’s not a burning priority
ATMO keep an eye out for BMX race cranks, for kids they go from like 160 all the way to 140 or so. Generally the cheap ones are square taper 110 BCD, but with a cheap N/W ring could be a fun way to experiment.
AND they can be had in fun anno colors!
BMX cranks are all 1x, yes?
Should be, but I hesitate to say “all”. Many/most modern ones are for a ring mounted inboard of the arms, but there are still lots of inexpensive square taper/110bcd ring mounted outboard of the arms types out there.
That’s the limit of my knowledge, mostly from shopping for cranks for the kiddo’s bike, and the kidback tandem kit.
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Maybe one of those funky Bikingreen chainring sets would work with a BMX crank?
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Interesting idea. If it’s square taper so BB length can be used to play with chainline, it seems plausible.
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If you want low q and or way shorter (like bmx short), dixna. If you want cheaper, there are aliexpress cranks doing 46-30 (someone linked some in another thread)
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Have the 9200/8100 cranks been around long enough for them to get breaky and show up in a #thanksshimano hashtag?
R9200…
Praxis does 48/32 down to 160mm
There are some wacky 110/70 spiders that also fit the praxis arms (and other 3-bolt interface cranks)
Cobb goes to 145 and uses the new Sram 8-bolt spider interface. There’s probably some sort of hack here.
You can get creative.
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Talk to me about putting protective film on the new carbon bike. @halbritt you did this on your Carbonda yeah?
I put Module heli tape on the Marino.
A 60" roll was enough to do the top of the top tube, bottom of the down tube, seat tube, and part of the head tube for cables. It went on pretty easily and was simple to smooth out with a heat gun. A+++ would use again!
I also had the All Mountain Style honeycomb on another bike. The coverage wasn’t quite as complete, but I had enough to get the chainstays for heel rub.
Yup…. “Helicopter tape”. There’s a bunch on eBay. Got the bike as clean as I could, wiped it down with 99% isopropyl before application and used a roller to fully wet out the adhesive. Been fine ever since.
I think the real helicopter tape is 3M 8542HS, which is black and UV resistant. Pretty sure I used 3M 8671HS which is transparent and has similar mechanical properties but will eventually degrade in UV.
Note that I don’t think this matters for bikes, which are outdoors for a limited time and can have the tape replaced easily vs a helicopter which may sit in the sun continuously and have very expensive rotor blades that nobody wants to pay to replace.
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