i’ve had a hard time shipping a frame for less than $70 or so in recent years
Silly light plastic frame was 69 from the house
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I think it depends on who you talk to. Sram road and mtb are not campitico in 12. A lot of people swap Shimano and sram cassettes allegedly without problems, even tho srams cassette is rumoured to be 1.1 mm different in width. I haven’t heard if Shimano MTB and road talk to each other.
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SQ is there a frameset I can buy new that swaps most/all of the parts from a Long Haul Trucker? I was dripping sweat on my rusty top tube again yesterday and got to thinking I should dither this again
Rim brake?
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Yes
(part of me wants to ride it until it rusts out then upgrade to discs but the rest of the bike kinda still works?)
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700?
Bmc monstercross (on sale for 10% off rest of month 
)
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No 56cm’s left, and incredibly, uses a 130mm rear hub (LHT is 135mm)
Also I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I’m making another attempt to keep my BMC Road 
It’s steel, it’ll be fine.
Honestly after doing my own homework on this, it seems like the best options are 1) repaint it (again) or 2) get Marino to build something, so basically it’s between repainting it again or just finally replacing the whole thing
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More than I wanted to spend but this is actually an option it looks like:
Anybody know if fat guys destroy Crusts?
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2200 grams for a midsized steel frame, nearly identical to a CrossCheck. Some of that is probably embeefment to deal with disc brakes, but that doesn’t sound like the kind of featherweight steel tubing I’d stay away from.
I mean, a lot of it is going to come down to how smoothly you ride, whether you’re wheelieing off a lot of curbs with a bag full of frog samples(?) or whatever
Nah I think I’d be fine. The medium is basically a straight clone of my 56cm LHT too
But for $1300+ I will keep riding my rust bucket. Might be time to touch up the rust again with something other than spraybiek
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the Canti Noreaster has the brakes placed for 650b, except the 62cm size is 700c
the chainstay bend is also super wide to fit plus tires so normal chainline road cranks won’t clear, though a square taper triple may work out just fine
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gonna have to use this professionally
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I saw a video recently with someone using an “aircraft remover” type paint stripper to remove powdercoat.
Has anyone used anything like that, or have any other good methods of removing powdercoat aside from media blasting? If I can save myself the worry of having someone blast their way through a thin wall tube that would be great.
what’s this here tube made out of
Columbus SL if I can believe the maker.
Also $25 for stripper is better than what I remember media blasting costing me in the past.
maybe i asked this before but i honestly do not remember
archetypes tubeless y/n?
Nope. Just the Hydra.
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