Update: I made it to the part where I plug in the hose in and the red stealthamajig indeed fit on the exposed thread. Then I forgot to put the rubber boot on before connecting it. Good thing I have some spares. Also good thing that when I bled it at the lever afterward that it seemed like it had no air in it? Magic.
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what decent tire pressure gauge do i want? needs to do schraeder because i’m buying it for work but obviously will be keeping it so it needs to do presta too
You’d have to buy two, but I like my analog Accugauge. And they’re cheap.
Does anybody have any links to cool things that mount to barfly mounts
hey isnt there a website where you can tweak the geometry of an existing bike? im thinking about putting a 400mm ac fork on a bike that was designed for a 430mm and i want to see whats gonna happen to the other numbers.
Bb drops
Tt, cs lengthens
St, ht steepens
oh ya dont say.
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Is this a clydesdale on a karate monkey? are you me?
p sure the KM fork is 480mm ac. so no, i am not currently you.
ok cool.
urite-ish, looks like 468
Are Rival Hydro brakes crap or is my local mechanic crap or are hydro inline disconnectors crap?
I have had my bike in to my local small shop several times for the brakes which feel spongy and don’t really give me full power until they’re pulled to the bars. The first time they swapped pads and did a bleed. I took it back maybe 100 miles later and they swapped pads (because contaminated) and did 4 bleeds (but only charged me for the pads and 1 bleed). The brakes still feel way worse than my Tiagra hydros and still pull a good ways in before I feel any braking at all. They mentioned that the inline hose connector could be a place where air is getting in so my next move will be to get rid of that and just put hose all the way through. The connector is pointless anyway because the hose is externally routed.
I’d try a different a shop.
Fwiw, I’ve never had a problem with the quick disconnectors on my sram wet dicks. I would also look into what pads you’re putting in there. Its been my experience that there’s a big difference between compounds, and they’re both pretty sensitive to proper bed in.
Also how old are they? The master cylinders can collect dust and stuff inside the lever bodies, which can cause problems. There’s also a stroke adjustment or something in there that might be out of adjustment or neglected.
I’d pop the pads out and look for signs of leaky pistons too.
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Here’s a dq. I’m trying to move this bike and frame. I have the bike listed locally and the frame on ebay. I have had no interest. Would I be better off putting the bike on ebay? I don’t want to ship it but I can. Would I be better off building up the trek up and selling complete and then putting the blue frame on ebay? Would I be better off taking them both downtown and leaning then against a bus stop?
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Thanks for the insight.
The bike is fairly new. Maybe a year and a half. Maybe 2k miles total.
Will look into the brakes to see how dirty they are. This shop has caught brake issues (leaky piston) on another bike that a different shop had missed. I trust the shop for most stuff, but both Cornelia and I have had issues with them when it gets technical or they have to chase down an issue that isn’t solved by basic adjustments.
Trek brand name has value the Chicago bike doesn’t, unfortunately. So I’d build the trek up
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At this point, I would operate under the assumption that the brakes have been properly purged of air and it’s time to move on to the next step.
This is something the shop should reach out to Sram about. It’s not uncommon for Sram road hydros to develop that spongy feeling. Since it’s under 2 years old and the shop has done its due diligence, the next step is to submit a claim through the Sram warranty portal. Chances are they will send out new lever bodies or new brakes. I don’t know the exact reason but I assume it has something to do with the bladder seal or lever piston. We’ve revived some out-of-warranty Sram brakes with full lever body rebuilds.
IF they send new brakes you’ll be ditching those silly connectors anyway, but if they just send lever bodies, I would still request new hoses (probably on your dime) and ditch them so things can be properly trimmed to length and looking tidy.
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So I swapped out the old 8s XT stuff on the Peugeot* for 10s XT stuff, with a new 11-36 Shimano cassette and new KMC chain. Every now and then the chain binds when shifting from the 11t to the 13t. I can pedal through it, both in the stand and when riding, but it’s pretty jarring. WTH is happening? It’s not slipping, or skipping, or jumping gears like the tension is too tight/loose, and it just gets stuck in that one spot.
*the headset is fine, not sure what was loose but I took it all apart and put it back together and nothings loose now so whatever, I’ll deal with it when it gets loose again
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sad but most people will reject DT shifters
save them for yourself on the frame switcheroo
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Check that there is not a tight link in the chain. Pedalling forward and back should high light it. Also sometimes a sticking jockey wheel can do weird shit. The size of the cog you are in on the back could give you a different result, as far as the binding or not goes.
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