Wow, that crank is probably worth $450 to the right retro MTB fetishist!
Just don’t be a dummy like I was!
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Was disappointed that ad didn’t have a drive side pic, didn’t expect this level of service. 
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I just unbuilt a wheel with a cracked rim the spokes and hub are obviously fine to reuse but what about the nipples? They’re brass and the wheel was built in march ‘23 so they haven’t even been through a winter.
Should I trash em or throw them in my nipple shuffler?
when I downbuild I am doing a rim-swap and put new nips in the new rim
nipples are too cheap and universal to really be worth reusing, even brass
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Even on a 36h wheel they are 25¢ e/a so that’s what $10 for new nipples? You are with that.
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I just noticed that I can see/feel this bulge in my seat tube on a bike I bought a few weeks back. it’s pretty subtle but definitely there. is this butting or is the bulge from my chair pole?
Externally butted seattube. Pretty normal.
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thanks!
in most steel cases, it’s gotta be round on the inside so they do the butting on the outside. it’s cool to look at it and know you can spot fractions of a mm by eye. granted 1.2-0.9 is really a 0.6mm difference OD but i still think it’s cool
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GPS signal keeps dropping on Strava on my Android phone. Been doing this for a week or so, even after I’ve reinstalled the app. Anybody dealt with this lately?
Not Strava, but I’ve had it happen with RWGPS.
I would look at the battery usage settings. I think you want Unrestricted, so the OS doesn’t put it to sleep.
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I’ve tried digging around in the settings and found some power optimization stuff but didn’t see any silver bullets. Guess I’ll keep digging around in the menus
RWGPS also recommends an “AGPS reset” that could be worth a try:
Some Android phones will need to have their Assisted-GPS (AGPS) data reset to help speed up future GPS lock.
We recommend the following steps:
- Install the free app GPS Test from the Google Play Store. It’s a free app that you can later uninstall.
- After “GPS Test” is installed, tap the menu icon ( ) in the upper right corner then tap CLEAR AGPS.
- Tap the menu icon ( ) again, this time tap UPDATE AGPS.
- This forces the phone to re-locate itself with new satellite locks and local area network. This works best while outside or near a window.
- Let the phone lock onto satellites without moving for about 10-15 minutes. The more direct clear sky you can see the better this will work for accuracy.
- If you go out then back into GPS Test, the satellite lock should be very quick.
- Now, go back into the Ride with GPS app. Tap GO RIDE. The app should now show your current location on the map with a blue dot. Tap the crosshairs icon in the upper right corner to center the map on your location.
also, what Android device are you using?
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I will check this out. There was not much doing in the Location settings on my phone
Galaxy S23+
Okay I tried this out and did a lap on foot in the back yard on Strava and seems like might be working now? Fingers crossed for my next ride I guess
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if you changed any battery optimization settings, it’s also definitely possible that that helped. samsung likes to reset those to “optimized” or something similar in order to preserve battery life. pretty sure this happens with Samsung in particular when you update your device
I’ve had stuff happen like that before, where it would do stuff like “This app has been using a lot of battery when you aren’t on your phone, do you want to disable the GPS?” and I’m like hmm yes and then didn’t realize it meant it was using the GPS when I was on rides lol
I’m not aware of any software changes lately but I mean how could you be aware of all of them these days
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Sweet jesus save me from rear disc brake wheels
Why can’t I master installing one of these MFs without a repair stand. What am I doing wrong. Why am I being punished
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Well I just got it in but it was more of a random than a planned event
The Goodyears were fucking brutal to get on but they inflated instantly, popped in perfectly, and held air without sealant. I think they might be turds but okay for the winter
Um, quick release setup or thru axle? With TA it is pretty easy. My rando bike has QR/disc (/a washer I have to put at the end of the cassette for some reason) and that is a nightmare.