I appreciate your response thank you. Unfortunately this is an untried path of dithering that nobody here has yet embarked upon.
I hope to have the result up and running by (summer? 24?)
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Hey folks, I want to do something potentially really stupid so I thought Iād share it with you all.
Observe the amount of seat tube protruding above the top tube in this photo from yesterday:
Iāve decided that if I am to ride this bike more, Iād really like it to have a dropper post that goes lower than is currently possible with that amount of protruding seat tube. I want to cut 20mm off the top.
Anyone ever read about someone doing this to a mtb? I guess Iām coming to it from the perspective of people chopping their road bike integrated seat masts down to size, but those of course may be especially thick or something to handle that eventuality.
I know Iād need to see how far down the seat tube remains a circle, whether it becomes ovalized at a certain point. Anything else?
That and I guess how far down itās butted, if itās butted at all? I imagine itās a bit thicker at the clamp than at the not-clamp area
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hahah I remember watching this a couple of years ago, prior to wanting to chop this thing down. It is interesting that he says he had issues with the fibers fraying, considering I just watched a video of a Park Tool dude cutting down a carbon seatmast with a hacksaw blade and a guide with no problems.
my only tip from cutting carbon seat posts and bars is to wrap the cut spot in a strip of blue painters tape, draw your cut line on the tape then do your thing. it helped keep everything clean and seemed to reduce splintering/fraying
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How long is the dropper thatās on there?
And fresh blade.
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Oh itās carbon.
Is carbon even ābuttedā? IDK how any of this works.
Thatās what the chipper Park Tool mans did. He also splashed soapy water on the cut every once in a while to keep the dust down.
@Dickason_Daniel it is a 170 or 180 that came stock on my larger bike. Fully slammed into the tube, this shorty is a couple mm longer than the 210 is on my other bike at full extension. The saddle on the new bike is significantly higher in the down position. See me in new and interesting bike components for the resulting thigh bruise lol.
tbh cutting carbon steerers i always had better luck with a fresh metal blade than the ācarbonā blades
Echoing using blue painters, tape, and spraying the hell out of it with simple, green or soapy water
Would a surly troll fork be safe on a tandem? Surely yes?
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Did you buy that Trek, and do you need a 26er tandem fork?
I think the Raleigh I was trying to save is done for(cracked BB shell area).
Has factory 1-1/8" steel fork with both V and Canti bosses. Probably some other parts if you want we should chat.
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Iām interested in this conversation as I have a Trek cruiser tandem that Iād like to replace the fork on and upgrade some of the cheapo components (mainly drivetrain stuff).
I did buy it and I love it. I think im mostly looking for disc compatability and mostly more braze ons and tire width. Can clear a 2.1 front. But most of our riding here is loose chunky washbaord gravel and i want something aggressive on the front
Same fork as the Big Dummy. Mine was flexy and annoying so I ditched it for a custom thru axle one. YMMV.
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I probably can mooch one of my framebuildeuer for not much more.
Anyone seen a clydeslade fork on a tandem before?
NO. DO IT. PLEASE.
and donāt forget the medium bigant
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Also what the circle diameter is at various points where it is circle-ish
Even if you are fully in luck, the extension is likely to have a taper to it and need a different clamp size than you have now. If you are less lucky with roundness you may need to use a fancy high torque hose clamp.
The other thing to check is the reamed clearance depth of the seat tube, itās possible that a post can only be inserted so far and there are diminishing returns for shortening.
It was Supportive Upstanding Partners idea. Ill do it after a few months of successful tandem piloting confidence. We have one anyways