Whatever causes you the least stress.
Personally, I care about spoke color and every time I looked at the wheel I’d be kinda annoyed they got it wrong, especially if I was trying to make two wheels matchy, especially if I paid full retail.
But for you, it may not really matter and just as well to build it and dgaf.
Even in that case I’d let them know they screwed up, and tell them you’re just going to build it but wouldn’t turn down some store credit or whatever.
I’m just gonna build the wheel. Not even gonna email them.
fine them I’m e-mailing them anonymously in a cryptic manner to “check the accuracy of all their recent orders”
My canti braked Univega was originally 27", converted it to 700c and it works perfectly. Original dia compe 980 brakes.
???
Why? People have stuffed 650b wheels into 700c frames and gotten away with it, and compared to that a 4mm difference in wheel radius is just line noise.
Just in case you run into another bike that is worth it, Paul Racers have a center mount option that have enough flexibility in the pad placement to convert 27" wheels. If you’re ok with centerpull, that is.
Snowaguchi’s basically set up for Mafac long reach brakes and the racers handled that with some room to spare. The silver ones don’t look terrible on vintage frames.
That’s good to know, but my plan is to just give it back. I don’t work at a shop anymore so I no longer have energy for a project this pointless. Gonna dither my other bikes back to health instead.
ok i promise you i have done as much research as any reasonably competent home bike mechanic but holy shit ethirteen’s website and product lineup is obtuse
i have a 2021 norco optic c1. the cranks (according to the internet) are e*thirteen TRS Race Carbon.
i did a big smashy on the chainring and need to replace it. ethirteen says these are the cranks:
so that gets me far enough to get the bolt/extractor kit (because of course these aren’t self extracting in 2024, fuck you ethirteen)
but wait! the install/removal guide for TRS race cranks says this!
well, i tried that the other day and it definitely did not self extract.
also the rings! there are many on the site. the names of the rings and the names of the cranks do not align. i think i found this
TRS/LG1 Cranks: UL Chainring for SuperBoost chainline. SL Chainring for non-Boost and Boost chainline.
i don’t think i have super boost?
so, two shartqs
i really tried to help myself here
got it off. does not take the extractor even though it says it does. now I need a proprietary tool to get the chain ring off!
wow, modern mountain bikes are awesome
right? $18.95 for the proprietary bb/cassette lockring/chainring lock ring tool. the thing could ABSOLUTELY be normal shimano compatible they just choose not to.
also love removing cranks just to change a ring.
i should just go back to riding a track bike 100% of the time.
Fwiw the direct mount Shimano tool was also a new tool despite raceface using the legacy Shimano BB tool for theirs.
But fuck e13. All their stuff is ridiculous.
i’m far from an expert but these cranks seem absolutely generic and i’m not sure why they have to be soooooo special
I do defer to your expertise but, arent things different when fixed brake posts are involved?
If your wheel is 148 mm, you just need plain Boost. Super Boost is 152 mm.
I would recommend another crankset, but that might be more headache. I ran into a clearance issue on my Oiz with the Shimano chainrings and had to get a Blackspire.
yeah these cranks are pissing me off but they are very light and i like that part
It depends on the brake, I guess? Some of the centerpulls I’ve played around with have an insane amount of adjustability, and even the old Mafac racers have got enough adjustability to reach down to a 700c wheel.
Nextie rims still solid for mtb? Was thinking of building a trail build for sup’s optic to some DT swiss 350 since Q has them on sale for centerlock and ms. Thinking 28h coz why not?
Are there any discount codes still available with them? Wasn’t sure if it was them you could request them. Not that 219 or whatever is too much for a good rim.
Oh, also, using nipple washer is new since building last set of wheels. Do you have to add any length to accommodate for it in spoke length? I know I could ask the mechs and other expert wheel builders but you will respond quicker.
The Nextie wheelsets I had on my fatbike held my clyde ass up just fine, even in 29+ rigid mode. I’d still buy them if I ever went carbon again, especially since you can just call them up and say ‘make them extra heavy duty’ and they will for a nominal price.
FWIW I’ve had nothing but good luck Nextie.
