Banshee felt good at 140. Not sure going to 150 would be better with the 115 in back.
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It’s for 68/73bb. I ordered it new from the UK.
I found a 12 year old post on a MTB forum saying to put two 2.5mm spacers behind the DS cup and one 2.5mm spacer behind the NDS cup. There’s no mention of this in Middleburn’s literature that I can find, but I’m gonna give it a shot.
Does this help at all?
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Pretty common way they can sell the same spindle length for two different BB widths, just like any other 68/73mm crank set you gotta make up that 5mm behind the cups
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Spacers are in the mail.
Wait a sec, is this saying to put the spacers between the crank and the bearings? I thought they went between the cups and the shell. I feel dumb.
I might just take these off the Bullitt and put them on a different bike.
Thanks. After thinking it over, I’m gonna pause on this one, my eyes have been bigger than my stomach lately, but it’s great to know for the future if a monster deal on something comes up.
Agreed, Keith’s really active on MTBR, and he’s said the same. They know their bikes, and the 120-140mm range for the Phantom is tested.
You can do it either way. The larger diameter spacers that fit between the shell and cups will work. Or you can use 24mm ID spacers on the spindle. I prefer to use spindle spacers.
cup spacers for threaded outboard BBs
spindle spacers for pressfit inboard BBs
fuck around and find out for threaded inboard and pressfit outboard
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I feel dumb. Did an air spring swap on my brand new Lyrik. My axle vise scratched the 150 air shaft pretty good removing the shaft insert spacer.
When installing the spacer in to the 140 shaft, I was “being really careful because it could get scratched” and I put a little ~6mm scratch in that one too.
I don’t think this region interacts with any sealing surfaces. The air sealhead spacer is about as deep as the shaft insert is long.
I’m guessing if it’s leaking in this area then air would eventually migrate from the positive chamber in to the negative through the equalization port, then out in to the lowers at full travel. So I’d have progressively less positive pressure?
What’s the deal with this Trek System 2 stem on my 1990s Trek Singletrack. Why is the quill bolt so recessed? It’s impossible to torque because I can’t fit a normal hex wrench in unless I use the long end and bits don’t reach either. This is from a $10 garage bike so maybe something fucky going on?
A non ball end T handle is what you need.
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is there crud or rust (crust?) in the cavity preventing your tool from seating well?
Or if the L isn’t ball head out the long end in and grip with the same size box wrench.
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It wasn’t super weird to have quill stems like this back in the day.
+1 to a long tool without a ball end, be it an L-key or T-handle. Had to chop the ball end off a cheapo old L-key to properly each the bolts on an old Shimano quill stem.
You can also stick the short end into the hole for the adjustable jaw on a nut fucker. A 6mm fits nicely into a standard 10” crescent wrench like yo.
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the high quality tube-constructed stems were built this way because it’s a lot lighter and stronger
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One of these may or may not fit.
I’d attack it with either this or an L wrench with a vise, vise grips, pipe etc for leverage, whichever is closer to reach.
Put a box wrench over the short side of the hex wrench for torque