Did you just ShartQ?

yeah i’m guessing when they planned m9000, everyone was still on 26", so they started making them for OEM, but then by the time the group was actually released, they only officially had 27.5 and 29, but had an oversupply of 26" sets that had already been made

m9000 came out in 2014. in 2013, there were still lots of 26" wheeled bikes, but it changed real fast in 2014.

584 is 650b

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yup and 26 is 559

Nah it’s 27.5

image

How many Centerlock rotor lock ring standards are there? I’ve seen the originals that used the exact same tool as cassette lock rings. Then that again, but deeper for reasons. And just yesterday I worked on a bike where the rotor is held in place with an externally splined jawn that uses a modern external bearing bottom bracket tool.

They def had to change it for some thru axle thus that bb tool one.

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no (never!)

you’re looking at the bearing cone itself, not an endcap for a cartridge bearing

I think that generation is new+fancy enough for it to include their “digital adjustment system” where there’s just a cone with indexed preload positions instead of a cone+locknut

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What did you decide? Im pretty sure ive converted a 15 x 100 thru - axle front to QR with the 2 aliexpress sleeves - albeit in 29 inch. I haven’t done a rear one, but I thought you could do that without messing with end caps.. EDIT: nope, just tried…heh.

sounds like consensus from the team of experts is it’s a no go

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i think this is the number. i was extremely upset when I learned of the third standard as well.

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How would tarck repair this?

new e-biek (aluminium frame) has a stripped thread (the bolt tightens, then suddenly loosens with more turning, repeat) where the abus wheel lock mounts.

Other side is ok, so lock is held in place currently and security unaffected by either bolt being removed. Future issue is stripped thread totally fails, then other thread loosens and lock falls into wheel while riding.

Options I have come up with so far in increasing order of difficulty / reversability

  • loctite the bolts in place and monitor (lol)
  • glue the bolt in place (more likely use allthread and then use a nut to attach the lock) with a thickened epoxy for fill
  • try to schmear threads with epoxy and then retap, and call Torque Gently’s holistic bolt reinstallation agency
  • tap out one size up - currently unsure if there’s enough material to do this M5 to M6 but google image search is not encouraging - perhaps a rivnut could be installed?
  • find a tame TIG welder to fill the boss and re drill/tap.

Any better suggestions / preferred options spring to mind? I’m leaning towards gluing in allthread currently as that might reach some undamaged threads as well.

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Helicoil?

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don’t know why I didn’t list that! I have to see if the existing boss is an insert or rivnut, but helicoil could be the simplest and best option

i’d be in favour of removing that lock all together. I hated the one that came with our bullitt, always forgot it was on and traumatised some spokes.

plan to combine with plug in chain, pretty hard to forget it’s on when you’re chained to a pole

Strong disagree.

Having the ability to quickly freelock a cargo bike makes cargo bike life sooooooo much easier.

I have damaged some spokes tho, but now I remember it’s on like 90% of the time.

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I put one back on my distressed cargo bike. It had rusted off or something previously. Free locking a 110lb object is pretty nice. I have changed 3-5 mysteriously broken spokes on that wheel however.

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I was thinking how best to indicate something just like this!

it’s a bit annoying that the cafe lock makes the key captive when open, so you can’t put the key on a keyring unless you want all your keys hanging off the lock while riding. In general it’s better that the key must be in the lock before you ride I guess.

collecting a thread repair kit tomorrow, :crossed_fingers:

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