yeah i’m guessing when they planned m9000, everyone was still on 26", so they started making them for OEM, but then by the time the group was actually released, they only officially had 27.5 and 29, but had an oversupply of 26" sets that had already been made
m9000 came out in 2014. in 2013, there were still lots of 26" wheeled bikes, but it changed real fast in 2014.
How many Centerlock rotor lock ring standards are there? I’ve seen the originals that used the exact same tool as cassette lock rings. Then that again, but deeper for reasons. And just yesterday I worked on a bike where the rotor is held in place with an externally splined jawn that uses a modern external bearing bottom bracket tool.
you’re looking at the bearing cone itself, not an endcap for a cartridge bearing
I think that generation is new+fancy enough for it to include their “digital adjustment system” where there’s just a cone with indexed preload positions instead of a cone+locknut
What did you decide? Im pretty sure ive converted a 15 x 100 thru - axle front to QR with the 2 aliexpress sleeves - albeit in 29 inch. I haven’t done a rear one, but I thought you could do that without messing with end caps.. EDIT: nope, just tried…heh.
new e-biek (aluminium frame) has a stripped thread (the bolt tightens, then suddenly loosens with more turning, repeat) where the abus wheel lock mounts.
Other side is ok, so lock is held in place currently and security unaffected by either bolt being removed. Future issue is stripped thread totally fails, then other thread loosens and lock falls into wheel while riding.
Options I have come up with so far in increasing order of difficulty / reversability
loctite the bolts in place and monitor (lol)
glue the bolt in place (more likely use allthread and then use a nut to attach the lock) with a thickened epoxy for fill
try to schmear threads with epoxy and then retap, and call Torque Gently’s holistic bolt reinstallation agency
tap out one size up - currently unsure if there’s enough material to do this M5 to M6 but google image search is not encouraging - perhaps a rivnut could be installed?
find a tame TIG welder to fill the boss and re drill/tap.
Any better suggestions / preferred options spring to mind? I’m leaning towards gluing in allthread currently as that might reach some undamaged threads as well.
I put one back on my distressed cargo bike. It had rusted off or something previously. Free locking a 110lb object is pretty nice. I have changed 3-5 mysteriously broken spokes on that wheel however.
I was thinking how best to indicate something just like this!
it’s a bit annoying that the cafe lock makes the key captive when open, so you can’t put the key on a keyring unless you want all your keys hanging off the lock while riding. In general it’s better that the key must be in the lock before you ride I guess.