It’s a good question.
If I rode with enough frequency and volume I’d do my own tests but that’s not where I’m at.
FWIW, $40/lb may be “cheap” in bicycle chain wax terms but that’s still 10x what paraffin costs at retail. I paid $16 for 4lb of good paraffin candle wax at my hobby store. If you believe that the WS2 additive is doing anything, that’s another $10-15 from amazon for a tiny bottle that will treat hundreds of pounds of wax. 2.5% by weight is what I’ve seen suggested.
My $40/lb figure is made up. Mayhaps the real number is higher. In any case , very high quality parrafin (e.g. more pure than the gulf wax, which I use because agonizing over chainwax is insane) is still very cheap compared to silca proprietary toxic wax.
This whole thing is whacky. In the plain commodity wax tests that he has released he shows marked improvement over basically all wet lubes. The performance is so much better than wet lube who really cares about a dubious additional 2% at the cost of shedding PFTEs into your bloodstream
just look out for the rising anti-wax movement 
WS2 might not be as bad as PTFEs and other additives, but being that I end up handling chains with my bare hands, and can use paraffin just fine, means I’ll stick with paraffin.
I probably don’t end up lubing my chains enough anyway
i’m still over here dripping lube like a CAVEMAN so don’t mind me
Drip lubes like Flower Power, Smoove and Squirt currently giving me all of it.
The OG chain wax was something like 2/3 paraffin to 1/3 motor oil simmered in a crock pot. You just need to not burn your kitchen down.
I just bought 32oz of Rock n Roll blue lube.
I buy whatever my LBS has in stock, like a drone
I can’t be assed to put that much effort into it anymore
Euro regs prevent planet-killing stuff so, meh, I’m good
Can’t remember the last time I even put lube on a chain 
I thought the latest thing on EC was that they (the hosts) were doing an initial treatment with wax and then going to drip wax in a bottle treatments? Do they replace the power-links each time. That could add up.
I know people do the drip wax “top ups” and it seems like that works, but I just rotate waxed chains every couple hundred miles. It’s more up-front setup, but afterwards it’s pretty quick to throw the chain I just took off back into the wax pot for a re-up. I reuse the AXS powerlinks twice before putting a fresh one in, I know they’re officially one-time use parts but they don’t seem to get too sloppy in this pattern.
I’m about to embark on this. Got any tips?
I just had my local frame builder take my Redline from 27mm to 27.2mm. It cost marginally more than buying the tools. He said that reaming is an extremely sweaty job for him so I’m happy I asked him.
that makes me wonder if I should have sweated more over it!
I have no real tips. took a lot of cutting fluid and elbow grease, but was very doable. haven’t had any issues yet, but that bike is on pretty light duty these days. I also wonder if the Triple Triangle is reinforcing it a bit.
Did the same to mine a few years ago. Was tedious but not hard.
The chrome plating on my new discount Soma fork is peeling off in big pieces. Cosmetic issue or sign of a serious structural problem?
The next layer appears to be another chrome layer and is well polished but cloudy in places. It peeled from the dropout all the way up the leg to the crown in one piece but the leg section is practically invisible.
I don’t remember if soma was the one with disc forks crumpling or it was just karma for that guy but I would probably send these pics to soma QC and be like “hey I guess I understand why these were on sale is this going to cause me any undue harm earlier than expected?”
IMO. bad adhesion of the top layer to the lower plating would be a plating problem not an issue with the metallurgy or geometry of the underlying object. That lower, less shiny, layer is probably nickel and there’s probably a layer of copper under that.
Anyone ever ridden the Wilde Rambler fork? Can’t get it out of my head that I kind of want to put a steel fork on my Jamis.
