Cable or hydro? And if hydro which brand?
(Jones Wolvie sounds real fun btw)
My only disk experience is BB7s and 4 pot Deore. I’m open to anything!
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Oh you’re buying them from scratch, I see.
I’d just get TRP Spyre calipers and either Shimano Tiagra levers or Paul Love Levers (short reach) if you want the best possible lever feel. And get nice compressionless cable housing, like Jagwire or some of that swaggy Velo Orange or Simworks stuff.
And I’m not sure if you’ve used Jones bars before but nice long levers are really what you want on them. I swear by the “compact” Paul levers on my less swept back mountain bikes but they just aren’t in the right position when you slam them up against the loop ahead of the super long grips on a Jones bar.
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I have Jones bars with V brakes and Avid levers on my Cannondale currently and I like them.
The Shimano UR series flat mount/flat bar brakes are perfectly cromulent and last I checked less expensive then Spyres + levers.
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Those look perfect. Are they picky about rotors? My bikes are small, and I run brakes, moto, are they J kit?
Iirc shimano brakes ship with the hoses attached to the calipers but not the levers so it’s super easy to set up moto routing.
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I am real chuffed with my postmount growtacs, if you know anyone going via Japan. I have low rent shimano levers and they are excellent on a loaded bikepacking rig on gnarly descents.
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I wore a bike chain bracelet for a year or two, with a gold sram quick link IIRC. Wasn’t uncomfortable.
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How much are they in Japan and where do you buy them besides blue lug?
Compression nut at both ends and come with plenty of excess hose.
No issue with other rotors. The front is direct mount so keep that in mind.
If you want to nerd out you can always upgrade the hose to BH90 for a firmer feel but they work fine stock.
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What fenders should I put on my unit? Full fenders like bluemels or more of an Andrew Major style situation? Assuming some moderate singletrack and perhaps an overgrown road or two?
Are there options for shorter fenders with stays? I have the mounts. Should I chop some bluemels? 2.6 tire width.
Do you want to be able to rip through blown-down sticks and small branches without thinking about it? Are there a lot of leaves in your area during fall/winter?
I have an MTB in each style and the Mudrocker/MudHugger bike is less of a hassle. Never any issues with sticks or leaves and almost no rub except the roughest surfaces. The fenders are great for wet and mud but not something I’d want to ride in full-on rainy weather mixed surface.
Regularly pick up sticks and leaves with the full fender jawn. Not enough to do anything other than rattle or catch in an out of the way place but more annoying and I always have to check up where there’s a lot of forest clutter. Much better for riding around in the rain.
IME full fenders with hard attachment rattle/rub more even with extra stays and wide clearance.
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Excellent! Thank you for the info.
Im having trouble getting a sense of how well the mudrocker/hugger front would attach to a rigid monocrown fork- do you have thoughts?
With no attachment to the crown itself like how their gravel fender is fit?
I ran a version of this on my gravel bike and it was fine, did not seem much less rigid than when used with additional zipties to a fork arch. Putting something around the legs or between the fender extension and the leg to increase grip and tension helps eliminate possible rotation. I used silicone tape and never had an issue.
This would be the rotation issue with no arch support up top. Zipties can get tight enough to keep it in place.
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Are 12-speed SLX 1x cranks (SLX FC-M71XX) compatible with 11s chains?
i’m running 12-speed deore cranks with 11-speed chain/cassette with no issue at all
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Thanks. I do have a thru-crown mount that I could use with a fender flute. Tricky to figure out the right front shorty fender
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What’s the purported benefit of high normal / rapid rise danglers? The best I can find from Grant is that fail to a low gear , but that problem has only happened to me once and who cares.