you don’t pull the chain up, you let the system do the work with the spring and ramps. Pulling down should cause less wear but you really can’t tell the difference.
Aren’t you a friction lover? Do you like it for friction?
It worked nicely with friction but again it’s so minor you have to be focused on it to notice. I just sent it to mig for free because I wasn’t ever going to bother putting it on a bike. Also clutch is more important to me
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I reckon it’s just a point of difference. They wanted their own derailleur and it sorta made sense to make something that you can’t get anymore and works just fine.
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Fair. Its otherwise just an expensive m760
I use the mudhuggers. Rear is awesome and with the bb extension functions like a full fender. Front mostly just keeps the headset and your face clean. Long rides home in the pouring rain mean my shoes and socks get soaked but the bike stays fairly clean.
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I used it BITD for racing. I loved it. It takes less energy to change to a lower gear. Best real world application i ever saw was Josh Katos 2015 Tour Divide winning rig. 3x, rapid rise with bar-end shifters. Dangler failure would mean he still had 3 gears, some of them very low.
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This, and crucially you are not just forcing the chain to larger cogs whenever, instead the chain only climbs up when the ramps/pins are at the optimal rotation to stress the chain the least and make the nicest shift. Of course that only matters if you are using nice cog set to go with your low normal dangler.
The other advantage was that for newbs on a bike, pushing the shift lever the same way meant the same thing. i.e. push with your thumb on a clicky shifter and always goes to a “harder” gear.
For Shimano this also worked well with the dual-control mountain shifters.
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huh, I never realized the point about not forcing the chain up. thats the first reason for it i’ve ever heard that made me think it makes sense
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I’m having knee and plantar fasciitis problems. The latter is most likely caused by my overly flexible 5.10 shoes. I have a mild leg length discrepancy, which may be contributing to the former issue. I’m thinking of switching back to clipless for the stiffer shoes and ability to shim one of the cleats.
Does this sound like a decent plan? Any feedback is appreciated.
These, some mild stretching and slightly more padded insoles fixed my plantar fasciitis miraculously.
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watching gf do this I think it’s going to take more than fixing your setup she’s a 10-20k/week walker and it stopped her in her tracks. She has a ramp she does stretches on 2-3 times a day and reports really good results from clomping around in Dansko clogs. She’s mostly back to good
Don’t take medical advice from kitchen designers
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I’m currently testing several pairs of insoles.
Here’s a question from 2015 - what’s the max tire that the Soma Wolverine will fit front and rear? 700cx50mm? Will the front take a 29x2.1?
The old orange QR one, there was a review website that showed both front/rear with big tires and I cannot find anymore.
2.1s
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Definitely can’t go over 2.1” according to my mechanic friend who is a Wolvie stan.
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dang it now i’m dithering dirt jumpers again. should i build up the discounted $350 evil frameset or just get last year’s shonky from jenson for $900. or just try to bro deal something else completely?
shonky seems like it has pretty low quality components, but i dunno how much that matters on a dirt jumper
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The components on the Shonky are pretty decent. One of my old riding buddies that is a shop bro has one, if that’s any indication.
You could look at the Fairdale Hareraiser or GT La Bomba if you want a rigid fork.
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Yeah, Shonky looks like a great deal overall for a complete. Any ep on a bike with a pike or bomber dj would still be more and most of us wouldn’t really have much to say about the difference.
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