From what I remember with the wound ups that just kind of happens if you ride the fork bracelets. I think they’re assembled with purple loctite? I took the steerer out of my fork once and can’t remember why but it was kind of a pain in the ass
next issue with this Croll frame is the dang ol seized BB. I’ve tried PB blaster and a heat gun but it hasn’t budged. Any ideas before I carefully try to cut it out from the inside?
What is the removal tool? Have you tried hitting it steel on steel? Sometimes the shock will provide more peak breaking torque.
I hate cutting things like this and would go out of my way to try more leverage first. Potential pipe wrench rental anywhere close by? Locally I could get a 36" wrench for like $12 for the day, would whip this pretty quick.
I’ve mentioned these before, I’ve used them on all manner of stuck and seized things and they’ve never failed me yet. Not practical at ~$70/per, but along the same lines if you can find/borrow/etc.
Pipe wrench looks like it might help. I don’t really wanna skip to dremel. The bottom bracket is a shimano bb-7700, the tool I’ve been using is a track lockring removal tool. I tried with a breaker bar but essentially just started marring the interface on the bb (as you can probably make out in that photo). not near Atlanta unfortunately. What kind of place rents a pipe wrench? I guess I’ll check the tool library
I got the NDS off so I do have access to that side.
I also poured some mix of motor oil and gasoline I think down the seat tube and let that sit for a couple days. I might have used a propane torch as well on the bb shell until that oil mixture started smoking and the cranked on that bolt setup with a cheater bar and it worked. Really felt rewarding
I bought a battery impact wrench to remove my stuck crankset, bike shop recommended against it since it could harm the bearings but I’d tried a breaker and penetrant already. Had to hold the trigger on it for several seconds before it broke free. Now I use the impact for car stuff
50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is an effective penetrant, or just buy Kroil. I like to apply the penetrant and tap the interface with a hammer every couple hours. if you need to grind you could start with a couple opposed flats that a vice or pipe wrench could grab, and try rocking back and forth (i.e. not only loosening)
I’m a few days late, but i’ve ridden them all - deore, slx, xt, and xtr 4-piston brakes. plus i still have a set of xt 2-piston.
IMO, they all work great. the xtr do have more braking power than the others, but the deore, slx, and xt feel very similar. i’ve gotten most of these with complete bikes, so the deore and slx stuff came with cheaper pads and rotors.
i warped the cheaper front rotor on the slx brakes pretty quick, but not particularly bad, and it’s on an ebike so it makes sense.
the deore stuff on my big trail bike has been fine and i’ve had on issues with it whatsoever after like 25 DH says.
i run metal finned pads and usually do get the nicer shimano rotors, but i’m riding bigger mountains so it’s maybe an edge for me that it isn’t for anyone elsewhere.
my older 11-speed gen xt 2-pistons are also still great and much easier to squeeze than any of the 4 piston stuff. they’re on a bike packing bike, so they get used to descend on a loaded up hard tail and they’ve been great.
as long as the rotor size is appropriate for your use, i think slx will be more than enough for most people and there’s not much justification for the extra money for xt unless you’re trying to match the rest of your kit.
I had thought this was something every Home Depot had but I guess hand tools are a limited option depending on the store. Northern Tool, United Rentals, etc would be the next option.