yeah- AvE tests a bunch and its a similar story. hitting it does more than oil, but wd40 is better than pb blaster or kroil. hitting it and oil is best. i don’t think he involved heat
Does that pedal have wrench flats?
Regular size wrench fits it thankfully
damn, that is one stuck pedal. You don’t have a breaker bar you can fit over the wrench to really go at it? I’d get gymnastic and do like a “stand on pedal and smashkick (technical term) a breaker bar on a wrench” kind of thing.
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yEAH my original LBS proprietor who had more real world skills than most, did one of my workmates bikes like this with the heat/bash combo. Effectively an impact-driver mechanism. Possibley did it from behind though with a hex.
Okay the bb bolt is stuck too so i couldn’t remove the arm so I just lifted the whole bike over the gas burner for a second and got it to about 200 degrees (according to my laser thermometer aimed at the point where the pedal meets the crank). Still stuck. Started melting a reflector. Since both of the NDS side screw in things are stuck I think something In the basement must have corroded them. Drive side came off fine. I’m going to remove the reflector and try again when it cools down.
This might sound crazy but have you tried tightening it? Sometimes I’ve had some luck by giving it a tug in the opposite direction and then trying to get it loose.
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to be clear I think the WD40 brand penetrant is called Deep Creep, not the original
I’d give the pedal a couple of good whacks with a hammer and then go at it with a pipe over the wrench for leverage. An old seatpost might work.
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What’s a decent cheap little waterproof flashlight? 1 or 2 AA or AAA batteries. Medium to high light output. Preferebly something from China with free shipping. I’m sure @halbritt knows.
The saltpeter leaching out of that brick foundation wall will absolutely corrode the fuck out of any steel object within a couple feet of it. I’ve had chains rust completely solid in a matter of months in my basement if a bike is leaned up against a brick foundation wall.
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Olight i5t or Lumintop Tool AA. The former is the brightest light I know of that runs on an alkaline. The latter has the option to take a 14500 lithium ion and when equipped is way brighter. With an alkaline, max output is 270 lumens.
Lessee, i5t is 300 lumens max output, is less “tactical” looking than the Tool, and has a simpler UI.
I’d EDC the Tool with a 14500 if the Olight S1R Baton II didn’t exist.
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Whoa I had no idea.
Me neither. WHEW thanks for the warning
Learn from my mistakes! I live a block from the lake and my basement has very weepy walls!
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I tried overnight oil and the heat thing again but no luck. Built up the bike to take to the shop tomorrow. Rode it around the block a few times and remembered why I love the bike.
Install the crank on the wrong side of the bike and ride it around?
What kind of cable end do I need for this? It’s on the ds chainstay for the housing from the frame to the der on a 70s trek. If you need a different angle I can get one.
It will be cleaned up.
I think it may just be the housing filed flat that is meant to go in there
Step down ferrule
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