In this case the shimano tax is pretty small, the deore was $70 (vs $65ish for sun race). And I got an extra tooth!
Good point, I’m gonna try with current setup first
Does anyone know if 12s shifters work with 11s danglers?
Incidentally, I recently handled a Sunrace cassette next to a 105 cassette and the former was clearly superior quality.
Are the Blackburn Local Deluxe racks worth messing with? I’m trying to find a rear rack for the Lorry and hoping to find something that doesn’t sit super high (because of high lower mounts) and can deal with really low seat stay mounts. It being a bolt together rack doesn’t excite me, but it’s only $50 and has mounting flexibility that other cheap racks lack. Bonus is that it’s really heavy at 2.3 lbs, which would push the bike even that much closer to weighing 80 lbs.
https://www.blackburndesign.com/p/local-deluxe-front-rear-flat-bike-rack/
Alternately, I could spent 2x as much on a Tubus and hope that the stay angles would work, or that it’s robust enough to handle using the Surly upper rear hardware from the parts bin.
a shopbro should try this and please report back
While i’m thinking about parts compatibility and taking measurements on stuff…
if any of y’all have any busted shimano hydraulic calipers that you can’t send in for warranty replacement for some reason, drop me a line and i might pay for you to ship your busted useless shit to me + a few extra bucks on top for your trouble.
particularly interested in any flatmount calipers, any 4-piston calipers, and the cheapo ones that take the “wide” B01S resin pads
Piston size database?
Re-taped with 50mm WTB (over the nylon strip) and everything sealed up nicely. Only lost a couple of PSI overnight w/o sealant.
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Pedal washer mandatory? Sure hasn’t been one on there ever, but now I have a creak and am hoping this will fix it.
Other owners of this crank usually blame the chainring, but mine is so snug on there that I wasn’t even able to get the lockring off with the leverage that wrench I had on hand provided. So I think I’m going to leave that alone until I try other things.
The washers are just to keep pedals with wrench flats from digging into the arm, shouldn’t make any noise either way.
What bb standard is the frame? Maybe the pedal itself is making noise? Or the seatpost.
73MM BSA
I think I’ve ruled out non-crank-related stuff. Could be something else in the suspension, I guess. I’d be surprised if it is the pedal as they are the heavy, bombproof looking* Bontrager metal shits that look good for bludgeoning.
The outboard bb bearings don’t feel all that great tbh. Don’t know if they would do a creak though? I also pushed a pin halfway out of my chain before realizing I was breaking it in the wrong spot. Do chains creak with pedal strokes? The tightening bolt on the cranks seemed to not be torqued to spec when I undid it, and the cranks pulled off the spindle pretty easily on disassembly, so maybe that’s it. I dunno.
I took it around the block twice the other day before I could make it make noise after putting the cranks back on post-inspection.
Long story short, I’ve got a lot of stuff to try but I don’t think it is the chainring and pressing down on the drive side pedal specifically makes a bit of a racket. ¯_(ツ)_/¯
Suspect. Is the noise only when pedaling? or can you make the noise with repeated suspension compressions while keeping the pedals in the same position.
Suspect. Every single pair of heavy petal shit pedals I’ve ever owned has made noise. Always a different noise, a squeak, a rattle, a click, etc.
Suspect. Slap on some new spinny bois to be sure.
Crank coming off easily after removing the bolt is pretty normal. If the spindle/crank interface is making noise, you can usually silence it temporarily with some grease.
Don’t think I can do it with compressions, come to think of it.
Are these bottom brackets fairly interchangeable? Like can I get a 30mm spindle BB from some other company?
I don’t think so? I’ve only ever run Race Face bottom brackets with Race Face cranks.
I kinda hate my 2016-ish RaceFace cranks. Turbines? BB has always had play, center mounting bolt is pointlessly oversized.
I should Shimano that business
The sense I get is that everyone hates RF cranks. They were fine until this last time I crashed and now something ticks! At least I just realized they’re 24mm not 30mm. Almost as simple as can be, I guess.
After I clear our refinancing, I’m going to ditch the Dub BB in the Instinct and put XT cranks on it.
Then I can Stages all the things!
I love my 2016 turbines. Had zero issues with them, pretty sure they’d last for ever if I keep fresh grease in the bb.
You can run Aeffect 24mm cranks with a Shimano bottom bracket, just don’t botch the install because its easy to knock the drive side Shimano top-hat seal loose when tapping in the Race Face crank.
As a rule when swapping any direct mount ring I wick a little green loctite into the splines before installing the lockring with grease on the threads.
Also, washers can also ward off oxidation where the pedal would otherwise contact the arm. I’ve seen PLENTY of cranks with various levels of corrosion here and the nicer washers seem to prevent that.
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