Put a tube in to seat both beads, deflate and unseat one bead to remove the tire, and try reseating that bead.
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Definitely seat dry, thatāll diminish the probability of a mess. And fanning your fresh sealant with air while setting the beads makes it dry sooner.
Sometimes you can seat with a floor pump, but you gotta remove the valve core and basically pump your arms off.
Yeah no sealant until the beads pop. I donāt understand how you have the bead sitting on top of the valve. I dunno, just push it off to the sides of the valve? And thenā¦
PUMP FURIOUSLY
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Seating new tires is ARMS DAY
This is what Iām doing right now. Theyāre making snappy seating sounds
I have a chargeable pump so hopefully that will make things easier
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At that point you should be able to do it with just about anything that puts air in tire.
I think part of the problem is that I make problems for myself. Iām using the ālambskin condomā vittorias which are exceedingly floppy.
^Just trying to provide more material for @Dr_Jart_Attack_PhD
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Mmmm, satisfying
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Itās great to hear I am not the only cable lover. I hate the finicky nature of hydro road. I like being able to just tweak an adjuster on my BB7s if something starts to rub. Sram red/BB7s combo works great for me. Not had any leakage with my sram road hydro but itās wooden as hell. I think thatās a symptom of something. Thanks for the review @adem
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totally loved it until the calipers started shitting the bed on me, which was probably due to aggregate wear and tear from commuting on very salty slushy winter roads. then I replaced calipers, the replacements had leaks for various reasons (cracked piston, jacked up bleed nipple). then I got a leak from a failing master cylinder seal in the lever. 
probably just replacing levers and calipers both would fix the issue, but that sounds like a lot more money and time than I have right now. better to just throw on some cable shakes and try something new.
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they were brothers, once
take the tire off, and remount it in a way where you finish at the valve, making the bead circumference tightest at that point
basically the opposite of old man roadie method where you always start at the bead to avoid pinching the tube there
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On really tight rims this is the only way to do it even with tubes. I remember the 650c rim and tire combo that came stock on older cervelos was a huge pain. By starting opposite the valve you can get the tire deeper into the center of the rim buying you just enough extra to not have to break out tire levers for installing the tire.
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Every time you weirdos try and talk someone through a tubeless setup I can only imagine how good they must feel to ride to tolerate all the bullshit.
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I wore out a tubeless Schwalbe Marathon that was on the rim so tight that eventually just cut the bead to get it off (not easy!). This was a huge pain and took forever, but that same tire had survived at least a half dozen insults that would have required a tube swap but instead just needed more sealant and air, which I figure means there were another dozen more that I never knew about.
Somebody here said once that tubeless is a pain to set up sometimes but that it saves you from āside of the roadā bullshit later and I would say that has definitely been my experience!
Maybe if I was still living in Melbourbe, where I once got 6 flats in a week Iād consider it.
Iām not sure Iāve had that many in Stockholm in almost 10 years.
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Yeah tbh the calculus changes if you donāt live on the Boulevard of Broken Glass
I want to get some Kool Kids Stops for my EuroTrek. Any word on what the best choice for canti brake pads is?
I have enjoyed all sorts salmon pads on BMX and calipers and cantiās too but now that Iām looking thereās way too many variations and choices.
The best canti brakes choice is v brakes
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