I don’t think so. these are the very first generation, so they have plastic bushings. New ones are metal. There are also a ton of bushings per brake, so not sure if it is worth it.
Huh apparently the new ones are also plastic, but it’s a very different design from the 2009 version
I’ve seen it plenty on road freehubs too though.
Interesting, I hadn’t realized the design changed so much.
Once you’ve replaced them I’d be interested in having a go at making new bushings if you have no use for the old ones.
You should put new colorful ones on the pink bike and swap the black ones to the black bike.
I don’t think they’d be very useful on the pink bike
Is this the black bike?
It looks pink on my screen.
Oh that’s not mine, I was just using it to illustrate that 32s can fit under eeBrakes.
My pink bike is disc. Also it is pesto bismol color
I was thinking the same but have no use for them. I’d probably use some nice black GP acetron delrin since it doesn’t degrade as much in UV as other grades of delrin.
It looks like I can get parts on ebay probably so I’m gonna try and grab that Carbonda 696.
I’m a short bike rider and even on my small frame bike my saddle stick has just around “a grip” of stick showing. My frame is steel, I have a carbon fiber saddle stick in the mail with ~400mm length.
Should I leave the full length on install? Should I bother cutting the saddle stick down? How much additional inserted stick is going to be ideal for a smooth ride?
You’re going to have to take notes and provide us with the results of this experiment. Cut it down a centimeter at a time.
If this is experimental and U want to resell possibly, then leave the stick alone.
Otherwise cut with a Dremel type rotary tool and wear a mask. Cut as short as possible + a bit extra to account for future saddle/shoe/pedal/crankarm length variations.
It is my saddle stick forever as far as I’m concerned. Seat height is absolutely dialed in to the max. I’ve cut hundreds of saddle sticks, no worries on the execution.
really just curious if there is any value, in terms of ride quality, to be gained in Lopping vs Not Lopping and if Lopping, then how much or how little for maximizing my comfort dither
Once the stick leaves the tube, assuming you have minimum acceptable insertion, I can’t imagine there is a measurable difference.
The amount of saddle stick remaining inside the frame has no bearing on ride quality since all the flex is going to occur above the insertion point. The only reason to cut down a post is for weight savings if you care about that
1gr-er
I don’t know how to format that. Make a “1 gram-er” joke to yourself and we’re good.
seat tubes flex too
lugged steel jawn so weight is of no essence
grant petersen will smile when all is said and donne
so the stick flex beyond the tube will be negligibly influenced by more or less saddle stick root down in the tube
Naturally you’ll have to tune the extra length for optimal vibration damping on your riding surface of choice. I mean, you could die.
Cut twice, measure once.