I still cant get the Sram 11 rear derailleur to shift into the biggest cog. It’s a medium cage with a road link and my cassette is an 11-34 or 11-36 I think. Should I push in the derailleur more before i tighten the bolt for the cable?
Also shifting to larger cogs goes somewhat smoothly but to smaller cogs (downshifting?) sometimes I skip cogs. Is this the sign that the derailleur needs lube? Or I need a new chain? Cassette still looks pretty fresh
What cranks do you have again?
Apparently SRAM made a limited number of “wide axle” cranksets and if you could find one of those that might solve the problem.
I’m wondering if one of the Wolf Tooth CAMO 110bcd spiders could work for you, perhaps the “boost” one?
I forget exactly how the bikinggreen chainrings work, but I assume you would need to drill out the threads on the CAMO spider, and possibly file off the bosses to get them to fit.
looks like you could flip it to push the rings out
I’m just eyeballing how the aliexpress spider the chainring tabs are offset inboard from the splined spider mounting face.
Vs. the Wolftooth spider where the mounting face(ignoring the threaded bosses) is level with the splined mounting face.
rival cronques.
bikingreen inner ring has a stub that has an offset threaded hole that receives the screw from the outer and also sticks into the chainring bolt hole
What internal rim width do I want for a 650x47 tire? i19?
i’d aim closer to 23 atmo
I have 47s on a 650b i21 wheelset and on a 700c i19 wheel. Both are totally fine but I’d also suggest going wider.
I have 23mm internal kinlin rims that I use with 650bx47-50 tires. Seems like about ideal.
yeah i’ve got mine on i23 KOMs. feels good. maybe could be wider or narrower. idk but 23 definitely isn’t too wide
Is there a chain stay length requirement for GRX front derailers? I cannot get this thing to not rub. I’m following the dealer install guide.
21-23 is ideal. 19-25 is fine.
Where is it rubbing? Is the trim function of the shifter set up correctly?
You may find that some rubbing on the plastic wear point on the inner part of the cage mag give the chain a little smooch no matter what.
So the fix at least was to run less than the advised amount of tension (indicator line below target line).
The chain would rub in the big ring, trim top big cog, with no way to back the cage out, and I was trying to fix that with limits, cage alignment, etc. Worse still, with the high limit screw set to nil, it surpasses the low limit and blocks the cage from swinging further inboard when in the little ring.
What cranks/rings?
GRX 400, 46/30. Edit: it’s on a Problem Solvers braze on mount, which may not be what GRX wants, I guess?
Is it a 2x or a 1x derailleur?
What model?
My 2x wifli will shift into a 42 on the back, with a roadlink, and a 46/34 up front.
ShartQ, but are you following the setup instructions?
The H/L screws are not “limit screws” any more the way I see it.
What has always worked for me for quick set up is as follows:
Back the H/L position screws most of the way out.
Back out cable fixing bolt adjustment (cable tension) screw all the way. Pull the cable snugly under the nut (pulling the cable towards the front axle while tightening the fixing bolt.
Dial the tension screw all the way in.
Shift to big ring and adjust the H position screw until it cleanly hops onto the big ring.
Then drop it back down and adjust the L screw until the little plastic bit of the inner cage just grazes the chain then 1/4 turn more out.
That problem solvers hanger shouldn’t be the issue, but it does make it harder to make sure you have the derailleur support bolt all the way in and contacting something.
printing this out and posting it on my toolbox
it’s actually a rival 2x 10s medium cage, but pretty sure the 10 and 11sp varieties are the same pull?
