Did you just ShartQ?

My SS cross bike was supposed to be a gravel bike so it has a pretty low BB. Pedal strike is a constant over roots and curbs. It’s got an EBB and I’ve already adjusted it to the higher position that keeps the chain tight.

I’m thinking of putting 170 cranks on instead of 175. I know it’s only 5mm, but that could make some difference at least.

I’ve always been under the impression that long cranks are needed for SS so you can get power when overgeared. Is that some nonsense? I know shorter cranks make for a better spin and I feel like I could have used that on the flat paved sections last weekend.

What’s y’all’s advice?

Also, anyone want to sell me some old nice 170 cranks? I’ve got some 8s dura ace square taper stuff in there and it’s so nice how smooth and light it is.

Maybe go bigger on the tires? A ton of track racers run 165’s on way bigger gears than you’d do for SSCX so I wouldn’t sweat 170’s.

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I think they help for low RPM honking up long climbs. But for cross with tempos all over the place I think it’s a wash and if you like a shorter crank, run a shorter crank.

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If I did tires bigger than 33 your UCI friends would come smother me in my sleep.

Guess I gotta sand it down and check

But my corporate overlords designed their cross bike to fit 47’s, you’ll be ok.

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With ss if it gets too hard to pedal get off and run.

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Reconfigure your gearing and try again next time

If you gear for the steepest climb, you’re gonna be slow AF on the downhills and/or the flats.

Good edit, because if you have to gear to climb then you don’t have to worry about the descents. This is how I won my first sscx race by gearing for the climb. Luckily, not much sustained flats.

Hilly courses aren’t really a problem for SS as long as you can gear for them. It’s the flat courses that suck.

What’s up with these Shimano STEPS disc brake rotors? How do they differ from regular ones?

they might be thicker. the trp ebike jawns are

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That… seems like a good thing?

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it can goof up some part of the pad’s ability to move, and to get it set so it doesn’t scrape, iirc

I think hydraulic calipers make thickness a non-issue in terms of fit and adjustment, but I could be wrong.

I dunno, I was using SRAM Guide RE (ebike) brakes for a while without giving any thought to the rotors.

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they have a magnet for the STEPS speed sensor. I think that’s the only difference - Shimano says you only need to use them on the rear brake with the speed sensor and to use a “normal” non-STEPS brake rotor up front.

Specifically:

STEPS RT-EM300 = SM-RT30 with the speed sensor magnet
STEPS RT-EM600 = SM-RT64 "
STEPS RT-EM800 = SM-RT81 "
STEPS RT-EM810 = RT-MT800 "
STEPS RT-EM910 = RT-MT900 "

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I’ve noticed Shimano has been moving a lot of the non-series parts under the STEPS umbrella. Recently, with the 4-pot brakes and the new version of the PD-M530.

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Not exactly. If you use brakes designed for 2.3mm rotors with standard rotors they definitely won’t work as well.

How about the other way around? Also, does this only apply to Shimano brakes?

Seems SRAM just says “thicker = better” Review: SRAM's New HS2 Rotors - Thicker is Better - Pinkbike

Also, wouldn’t these differences be within the tolerances of brake pad wear?