Excellent question. I’m at home with a sick kid, but I’ll add it to the list of things to document.
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Thanks, and good luck with the kiddo.
I’d measure mine but it’s in the cellar and I’d have to shovel snow to access it.
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fix your hub with a tube? do you mean by putting a sleeve inside to turn it into a 12mm? won’t fit on the search light fork
the sleeve is the width of the hub flanges
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Universal Cycles – Halo 15mm Thru Axle to 12mm Adapter [HXHAA1512F]
apparently you need to check the flange diameter to make sure it is correct for the fork as well
I think the issue was that the dropouts were too small to accommodate the larger endcap diameter of the 15mm TA
correct. i tried. it does not fit. not on the night moves anyway
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This is correct. Won’t fit any 15mm hubs I have tried.
300mm
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Okay. I’m getting over my decision fatigue from moving and am finally making progress on getting parts for the H-G from @karl_dandleton. I’ve got GRX drivetrain parts inbound. From the parts bin: stem, seat post, saddle, dyno lights, cables, pedals, bottle cages. Hubs from Mr. Doe and VO.
I still need to decide on and source the following:
- Brakes - any Shimano post-mount (MTB) brakes will work fine, right?
- Handlebars - The stack is a smidge higher than the bikes to which I want to match the position. I think it’s just a matter of couple spacers, otherwise I’ll want to find something with a pretty deep drop.
- Rims. Something 650b. What’s the least prone to galvanic corrosion, given that this will be my primary salt season and rough-stuff bike?
- Rack. Need to order a Milk Crate.
- What am I forgetting?
nextie rims r cool and carbon can’t rust
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Yeah, but carbon does promote galvanic corrosion. I’m not sure whether carbon rim + brass spoke nipples is better or worse than aluminum+brass. I somehow missed out on practical electrochemistry in my science education.
I have a set of 650b wheels I have been thinking about selling
32h CL hubs
Shimano TA dynamo (705?)
DT Swiss 180 (currently has QR caps)
Nextie NXT27AS28
HMU and let stalk
Carbon doesn’t promote galvanic corrosion per se - it’s a material with galvanic potential just like any conducting material. What that article means is that adding carbon to plastic, which would otherwise be inert, is something you need to be careful about.
This chart tells you how likely something is to galvanically corrode Corrosion. The farther apart two materials are, the higher the chances of corrosion. Brass & carbon are closer on the chart than aluminum and carbon, so it’s safe to say brass nipples are less likely to galvanically corrode in a carbon rim.
Practically, I can’t remember hearing of anyone who’s had spoke nipple corrosion issues, or hardly any other issues, with carbon rims. And if they did corrode, you’d just re-lace the wheel? The rim itself would be fine. On the other hand, I have plenty of personal examples of failed aluminum rims, for all sorts of reasons.
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Carbon galvanic corrosion is going to be 2023’s Internet Bike Knower moral panic.
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Good point about the rims being fine and just re-lacing if necessary. Thanks.
Thanks, but I’ve got hubs, so no need for a complete wheelset.
Another way to look at it: the galvanic potential between brass and carbon is about the same as the galvanic potential between brass and aluminum! So if you wouldn’t worry about brass nips in an aluminum rim, you shouldn’t worry about it in a carbon rim either.
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And unless you’re using raw brass nipples the contacting surface will be the plating, not the the brass.
Of course you’ll have the potential between the spoke and the nipple too! it’s electron swapping all the way down!
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