I had two sets of wheels setup for my gatherer at one point, the original 650b set with a 350 CL rear hub and a 700c set with a Stans 6-bolt rear hub, each with its own cassette. Both fronts had the same Shimano dyno hub and the same model CL rotors.
The only adjustment I had to make was figuring out which wheel’s rotor stuck out father (don’t loosen the caliper and mount each wheel and see which rotor sits further out), adjusting the caliper for that wheel, and shimming the other rotor to match. One rear rotor needed to be shimmed like 0.4-0.6mm and no shimming was needed at the front. After that, it was super simple to swap wheels and not have to mess with anything.
Shifting was great with no adjustment that I can recall.
I have found that as long as you are using hubs that have the same rotor mount standard (and rotor) and same ACTUAL freehub standard things will usually swap with minimal fuckery.
I have noticed more issues if one hub is 6 bolt and the other is CLD. Definitely some variance in CL rotors out there too.
For the freehub the biggest pitfall is if one hub is 11 road HG and and the other 10 road HG. If you are running a cassette that uses a 10-11s spacer on a 10HG freehub (like the 11-34 11s or 11s MTB cassettes) the placing of the cassette can vary enough that you will always want to check limit screws.
For the brakes, what I have found is that using the shims from Boyd for center-lock or 6-bolt from Syntace gets things super close. From there anytime I do a wheel swap I reset the pistons (which you should be doing anyway) with a Unior pad spreader.
Spreading the pads to account for wear/thickness differences between rotors?
In my case, the 350 was a HG 11 with an 11 spd cassette and the Stans was HG 10 with an HG700 cassette. Might have just gotten lucky on the shifty side.
It was the 6-bolt that had to be shimmed and those Syntace 0.2mm shims worked great.
Yep. If things are SLIGHTLY different it will also make it more likely that the piston position will adjust to the new rotor. The bonus is that it’s also a great idea to reset your pistons more frequently than most people are doing anyway. Especially if you have Shimano brakes with ceramic pistons.
I guess I was kind of hoping for a rear hub about the same as the 350 I bought in 2018-ish, but I am now wondering if the differences between that and the current production 350 are meaningful at all.
Then I have to figure out what dyno front hub to use, but that’s another matter.
Also realizing that if a dyno setup is going on and off with these wheels, then I am really overthinking the “quick swap” thing. There won’t be a quick swap.
I had a 15mm thru SP hub originally and replaced it with one of the 12mm Shimanos and have no regrets. I now have a couple of sets of wheels with the Shimano and they’ve all been great.
The new Shimano stuff is super nice, especially for the price. I can’t say that they are any better or worse than SP in my experience. Last I checked they are a little heavier. Only real drawback is lack of lower spoke counts and no 6 bolt option if you are trying to match a 6b hub.
SON is always better. Longer service life. Can be refurbished. Lower drag.
SP is ok, available in 24/28h
Shimano is fine, available in 32
Son is the best, will last the longest. Only available in black in 24/28 but silver and colors in 32
Eh, I ordered the Shimano and what might be the previous-generation 350 hub. I’m gonna be out of town next week so I’m gonna avoid stockpiling parts that would be a pain in the ass for my neighbor to keep in his apartment for me while I’m away.
Are there alloy rims I should be looking at besides the WTB KOM i23 Lights? I have been happy with the 700c i21 KOMs I’ve had for a few years now, they seem like a good balance of decent weight, decent price, good tubelessness, lowkey looks, nice ride, durable enough.
Have any of you used Freespoke: the spoke calculator before? I’m going to go pick up my rims from the shop and hopefully buy some spokes while I’m there, but I realize I just entered numbers into a website and trusted it. It seems legit enough, though?
For these two outputs:
and
I can just do one wheel in all 273 and the other in all 274, right?
Yeah, I used my own hub measurements. I’ll have to ask the shop if they can double check the ERD of the rims, but they wanted to charge $25 for spoke length calculation, which seems not unreasonable but I’m still not trying to pay for that. It wouldn’t surprise me if ERD measurement cost something.
I use EDD and DT spoke calculators. Generally, if I can find data on a hub that looks reasonable,
I’ll go with that after double-checking a few things.
As for ERD, I usually don’t bother measuring. Kinda depends on how reliable the rim manufacturer is expected to be. I poor the internets to see if other people have good experiences with the ERD number.
