I asked them to measure at the shop and they came up with an ERD 5mm different from the manufacturer. But also I watched him do it and I’m not sure he was using the Wheelsmith rods right. They didn’t have the spokes I needed based on his measurement anyway, so I think I’ll have to buy a couple of spokes and measure it myself.
Is zinc anti-seize still the preferred spoke prep here?
i use wheelsmith spoke prep. though i used to just lace them raw and then wick some purple loctite in after taking care of burying the threads on all of them. i think that’s the equivalent to dt spoke freeze
Anyone fuck with the whiskey gravel rims?
the molded-in flat spot for the tubeless valve on this is a nice touch https://whiskyparts.co/rims/No-9-gvl-rim
but otherwise it’s just an XC MTB rim from 5 years ago in 24h?
other companies are going much wider, and in more aerodynamic road rim profiles
https://www.nextie.com/gravel-AGX-700C
I’m on LB WR40 disc and I live em.
DT350 set is right at a bong. Last year they did a 15% off Black Friday sale.
Hey, Imma build up these 650b guys to some DT350s, I’d presumed 3x front and rear, but I was staring at my 700c wheelset and they’re 2x.
They’re 32h, so strength isn’t really an issue. 2x or 3x? Regular spokes are a buck each, blade spokes are almost three bucks each. There’s roughly zero chance of any aero benefit, but I prefer bladed spokes coz windup is easier to prevent. Across 64 spokes that’s like a hundred bucks difference.
I don’t really GAF about a hundred bucks, but that’d still be stupid, right?
Yes
Go 2x
easy you only need one spoke length. just get 253s, once you ride it the lengths will average out
That’d be great except… Spokes generally only come in even sizes.
252, 254, 254, 252
but you could do all of one or the other if you have confidence in the ERD, using the two spoke method where you pick your nipple depth that the measurement is set for
at least two people here have spoke cutters. and at least one of them is a morizumi, so you can count on the length staying consistent
Doing this.
I was actually kidding and because I’ve had enough problems getting dish right on the few wheels I’ve built I would have gone with the 2 different sizes…but nothing wrong with getting spokes custom cut
Carbon rims could make that easier too though
When in doubt round up and use nipples with a taller area at the head. I’ve found that spoke calculators are more prone to come up with slightly short measurements rather than slightly long.
ERD is to “nipple seat”. I added 3mm, 1.5mm per. Actual seat depth for the nipples I’m going to use is 1.8mm. Nipples are Sapim double-square, which adds 3-4mm on top. Lots of room for error.
Based on my previous experience building off of Light Bicycle ERD, this should be about perfect.
FWIW imma yolo these together based on advertised dimensions and I fully expect them to be fine.
Edit: mostly because DT Swiss and LB tend to be pretty consistent about such things.
My favorite, too. It warns against too many crosses, if they’re going to cross near the heads, which would have saved me a lot of work if I’d used it first instead of the othe popular options.
FWIW Freespoke and DT calculators were in perfect agreement.
