It me.
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You guys know what to do.
Idgi
I guess this is progress
I have at least one wheelset to get built this winter, why not* a yarn wheel with slotted hubs
*besides that I’m afraid of death
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In the year 2030
“You see, the hub is actually a composite but instead of carbon it’s lab woven strands of spider web. The spokes? You guessed it, spider rope”
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Big fan of my onyx hub but good god is it heavy. It’s a classic, so the vesper shaves some weight but it still surprises me when i need to pull the rear wheel from my bike
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this is the genius of my plan: use a massively heavy hub,
but offset it with alarmingly light experimental spokes and a rim that’s dangerously underbuilt for my weight!
I’m flipping the c.2000 factory wheelset script
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Gonna hold out for the DT350-crochet hubway
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Who has the euro pricing DT Swiss us website. Hmu in the dms because lurkers blew up the last one
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FTFY. Go big (or light) or go home.
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Building my very first wheel!
Have: LB AR24 32h
Exposure PD-8 SP dyno 6bolt 32hole hub
Need: to figure out spokes and nips (and washers?)
Haven’t messed with any of the online calculators yet, but I’m sure I’ll have questions.
ETA for 2-cross, the QBP calculator is telling me something like 278.5 for spoke length.
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With LB you need to calculate nipple height too
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That figure would get subtracted from spoke length? So pick out my nips first and then adjust spoke length?
Light Bicycle (and most of the china carbon rim companies) tells you the literal rim diameter, whereas a lot of other companies tell you the rim diameter + spoke nipple head dimension (the latter of which is what all the spoke calculators actually expect when you type in the “effective rim diameter” (ERD) of the rim).
For the LB rim, if you calculate the spoke length based on their spec’d rim diameter you’ll need to add ~2-3mm of extra length on the spoke, so that the end of the spoke is up into the flared head of the nipple rather than below the rim bed (which leaves the nipple susceptible to breaking at the base of the head). But I’d really recommend that you measure the ERD yourself off the rim you receive, with the nipples that you plan to use.
(for reference: my measured ERD on a recent Light Bicycle rim was 6mm larger than their spec’d diameter, and on a recent BTLOS rim it was 4mm larger)
My favorite spoke calculator is is Freespoke.
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I think I added 3 or 4 mm to the diameter last rim I built.
Was a fan if the Sapim HM washers. Would recommend double square brass nipples but those are kinda hard to come by. My standard spoke is Sapim race 2.0/1.8. I might use CX Sprint or CX Ray on aero builds.
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+1 to Sapim Race spokes as a good default strong/light/economical spoke for a first build, and also Sapim brass nipples
doublesquare are nicer to start your build with if you have the special square driver, and because the threaded section is longer it’s easier to get away with the same length spoke all the way around, but with brass ones you’re gonna add ~10 grams (on a 32 spoke wheel) way out at the rim of the wheel vs. standard nipples. Always feels a little silly doing that after shaving mass with a carbon rim (but I have done it before, lol).
It’s been a long time since I used nipple washers, I know LB says you don’t need 'em on their rims.
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Are you guys telling me the spokes I used for my first LB build and the spokes I just ordered for the next build were like 4mm too short?
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No, probably 5 or 6! Way worse!
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Never trust published numbers.
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Not that I build a lot of wheels, but I was taught that you shouldn’t order spokes/nips until you have rims and hubs in hand to get actual measurements
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