32 is tough to find in 20/406 but it does exist.
I was dream building a monopole and found a few but not many
Edit
Sun ringle cr 18, envy, duroc
Probably Velocity too but you don’t want that.
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The internet is telling me that 32” wheels will fit my LWB jones front and rear.
I don’t even have my 29” jones wheels yet but I’m using this as a placeholder for when I simply cannot hold the urge to dithery-doo back any longer.
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like folks have said; 32H is oddly rare in 20" rims. If you haven’t bought the hubs yet, 28H and 36H are far more readily available.
Seconding the Alienation Malice as a great rim (and it’s tubeless!). Mischief is a few grams lighter if you don’t need the brake track.
if i can figure out what combo of things i need to take a 36h dt 350 and make it 135/HG i’d go 36h and pivot from shutter to shimano hub. annoying how few 32h options there are in 406. brake track not needed- would prefer without
Hard disagree in this specific case. The Cliffhanger is your huckleberry.
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i’ve been so apprehensive of velocity since they moved production to the usa and i had awful experiences with a few of their rims, but that was like 12 years ago. that is more or less where i landed so if you say they are good, cliffhanger will be it
cliffhangers were also my solution years to “i already own 32H hubs and am building a minivelo”, and while they worked great, maaaan they were heavy
oh, what about spank spoon 28? it’s like 100g less than a cliffhanger
the cliffhanger on my clydesdale build developed cracks at the spoke eyelets after 3 or so years. which is probably a fine lifespan? it’s certainly the rim I’ve run the longest on that bike but also the only one I’ve had crack
Any reason not to use a DT swiss R500 DB rim? It’ll be laced to a 142mm 32h 105 rear hub and run a 700x40 tire, I had really good luck with the R460 rims on my kids bike.
Back with a wheelbuilding SQ
When the Alex Adventurer 2 on the back of my Big Dummy started cracking, I ordered a new rim to do a rim swap. I swapped all the spokes over and then quit working on it for a while.
This week I took another look at it. I’ve got it dished, trued, and have the tension about as high as I want to go according to my Amazon tensiometer, but most of the spokes have some exposed threads.
Does QBP/Surly build wheels with crazy tension and I need to keep bringing up the tension around the wheel? Do I need to start over and order new spokes with a spoke calculator? I fully believe I could be making some noob mistake here but I obviously don’t know what that is
Did the spokes settle back into the indents in the hub? Might still be some settling to do.
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That doesn’t look like the issue but I suppose that would be pretty subtle
Check that it gives reasonable readings for some other wheels that you trust are well-built.
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Seems to give pretty consistent readings across the wheels I’ve got. Not sure I trust it to be absolutely correct but everything is within a range. I’ve still got the factory front wheel for the Big Dummy and it also reads about the same as this rear wheel that I rebuilt
are all spokes showing approximately the same number of threads? I’ve laced wheels incorrectly before and had some spokes appear to be way too short while others were fully threaded.
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This is probably it then. I think I probably did kind of a fucky job swapping the rim over (tried undoing multiple spokes at a time, this was a mistake, but eventually all the spokes seemed like they were in the right holes so I didn’t worry about it). I was trying to look at the lacing yesterday and it looked right to me but maybe I should just take the whole thing apart and start from scratch
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Is the left right correct? If you have the nips going the wrong direction that will require more length