Are the Vittoria road Airliners the ones that come with a special set of pliers to get them set in place?
I like the idea of a foam core in my tire, but it sounds like it’s not quite there yet for tires under 40mm, based on the last reviews I read.
No special pliers included, but I will say I have one of said pliers and they do make some tubeless tire installed easier in general.
If you want to be a lab rat, you know where to find me.
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I have enjoyed the air liner on my mtb, and it was easy enough to get the tire on. I like that I didn’t have to get new tubeless valve. They didn’t lock the bead in as hard as cushcore.
Because it is attached with zip tie through the foam, it does grow over time (foam tears). So when I swapped tires, I had to cut off a chunk and create new hole for zip tie. Otherwise it was making an extra thud sound on an otherwise quiet Enduro.
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I laced up the front SP and the logo would line up if the valve hole were up one gap. If I flip the rim, will it line up?
If that were true, it would mean the logos on the rims won’t match if the valves are both at the same time.
Worth it?
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this is the one thing i like about chris king hubs
If a hub has a marking on it, it should be lined up with the valve hole.
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Imperfection is perfection.
It will not line up.
For a demo of why this is the case, please draw a slash on a piece of paper.
Like this: /
now turn the paper 180* and see if it fixed your problem.
Getting rims and hubs to match up perfect doesn’t always work because some hubs and rims want to be laced like this / and some want to be laced like this \. This is called handedness. If it doesn’t match, it’s really nbd to be off one hole and it’s the best you can do.
The only alternative is getting the rims and hubs in your hand to check handedness while planning the build. This information is not generally listed in specs for either rims or hubs. And no one will be able to tell it to you by phone or email because they simply have no idea what you’re talking about.
You check rim handedness by looking down through the valve stem and observing the spoke holes on either side to see if they go like this / or like this \. Hub handedness is checked by pretending youre going to lace 1x and seeing whether the spokes immediately ahead of and behind the label cross the label like this / or like this \. Only by either lucking out on a match, or laboriously engineering one, can you build perfectly lined up wheels. but srsly this is nerd stuff and you should probably not care about it.
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but king hubs just have the logo running latitude style so unless someone has spec’d which part of the logo is “right” you’re good to choose your wabi sabi
I’ve been referring to your advice from around this time last year and nailed the back wheel. The front hub has opposite handedness, and is a different brand, so it’s understandable.
I was pretty sure filling it wouldn’t help, I was doing that slash flip trick in my head and it’s always the same. Just a bummer when things are half a hole off on a 24h hub coz it’s a lot of degrees of rotation.
Unrelated, but 3x on a 24h dynamo is putting the crossing spokes real close to the heads. Possibly touching?
Am I good or should I buy new spokes and lace 2x?
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wait. hubs can have handedness?
I know rims are handed, but I’m struggling to picture how hubs could be
Relative to the logo, that’s all. The DT and SP spoke holes are opposites of each other.
Spoke crosses overlapping the spoke heads is really NBD. Until you break a spoke. It’s a front wheel so I’d just yolo.
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There’s the “Rule of 9” that says the maximum number of crosses you should do is the number of holes divided by 9 rounded down. So for 24h you should probably do 2x, but if things seem ok at 3x you won’t die.
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I feel like either of the spoke calcs I used could have said something.
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Freespoke does flag you when you have spoke head clearance problems
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That’s my new default page.
Here’s what I have.
https://kstoerz.com/freespoke/?link=1&e=554&wL=25&wR=25&dL=52&dR=52&s=2.6&n=24&xL=3&xR=3
I think I’d rather do this:
https://kstoerz.com/freespoke/?link=1&e=554&wL=25&wR=25&dL=52&dR=52&s=2.6&n=24&xL=2&xR=2
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Is it true that when bulding carbon rims you won’t need to deal with rim hop or true?