Dealing with all my hoarded shit from the move is still too fresh in my mind to implement this ideology.
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Yeah so that led me down a rabbit hole and I found the aero alloy rims I think I want
I’m looking for some kinlin XR31T
Who does distribution for kinlin?
Bikehubstore?
Before I order spokes and nips for the ultralight carbon deals, what do I need to know?
I’m thinking same as always, Sapim Race 2-1.8-2. Brass nips.
Same spokes/hubs as last build, 2x front. 3x rear. Everything still seems fine.
Should I get a spoke clamp thing to avoid any windup or just practice winding back a little at the end of each turn?
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Fyi i got some kinlin xr22ts and found they were hard to get replacements for after dinging them up. Kinlin had supply chain issues that appeared to last for years. Luckily dt 460s are common as dirt and ~same erd so i can keep going on the same spokes.
These really add a full 1.4mm to the ERD? No one else mentions it and it seems like a lot not to say anything.
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That sounds about right… that puts the washers at about .7mm thick each.
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Aha. Obviously they’re half 1.4. Thanks.
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this is like when I forgot that bikes have two tires when I was trying to make sense of a rolling resistance chart
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They do. When I was a seller of these, I wrote that on the product page (and the stack height for four other nipple washers).
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this brings up an interesting question. i have a unicycle. what is the rolling resistance of a unicycle? it can’t be half a bicycle. is it identical to a bicycle? i guess it could be MORE?
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i’m going to guess that it’s way less than a bicycle, because last year a touring unicyclist beat me up a steep hill and my ego will believe any story that makes it sting less
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Disc rotor position question:
I have two sets of wheels I use on my gravel bike, one has bitex hubs and the other has DT 370 hubs. On the old frame with paragon steel dropouts the position was noticeable different but both were within the adjustment range of the flat mount slots. Id just readjust the caliper position when switching wheels. New frame with aluminum dropouts however has the bitex hubs putting the rotor outside of the adjustment range.
Now I can just skim the backside of the rotor to bring it in but I’m going to be using these dropouts for other frames. So do you guys think it’s an issue the bitex hubs or the dropout spec?
dq: can you test with other wheels? should sort it out pronto
These are the only wheels I have on hand. I guess I can preemptively file the the slots a bit on the next frame I use these on.
I just found the Shimano rotor position spec so I’ll measure the hubs I have and see how they compare.
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I encountered some funny business with a Shimano hub on a Soma frame in the same way. The flat mount bolts had fairly large OD washers which actually prevented the caliper from moving all the way outboard. Switching to bolts with washers the same OD as the bolt head gave just enough more wiggle room for things to work. This was with some Origin8 Vise calipers though which might have been a factor too.
Good to know, I got Juintechs which I’m pretty sure are the same as the origin 8 calipers. On the previous frame I was running Shimano hydros so maybe it’s a caliper/bolt issue. I looked closely and didn’t think the washers were the issue but I could be wrong.
I just skimmed the backside of the rotor spider so it’s not an issue anymore on my bike. Fingers crossed it’s not a dropout problem.
Didn’t Soma’s sliding dropouts completely get the location wrong?
FWIW I was just digging into the flat mount “specs” pending designing my own and noticed PVD’s version deliberately increased the range of the slot.
There are multiple compatibility issues with the inserts on the Fogcutter/Grando disc that SOMETIMES present themselves, but they are being resolved allegedly.