They’re good hubs.
Pro-tip: measure them, don’t rely on the Hope PDF specs.
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i bet you could set your clock to DT’s measurements tho
i’m all in on DT350 being the most sensible hub ever that also happens to be kinda fancy. i’ve cleaned and lubed the star ratchets on my workhorse 350 maybe 3 times in the past decade. that’s all i’ve done and it’s still silky smooth
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Fwiw the measurements for the pro4s I built for the honzo worked fine. I’m sure Heath is going to measure them though, blueprint the whole wheel.
I like the pro4s. I had to do a small amount of faffing with the freehub, and wound up needing a different locking than the one that came with the cassette. A different spacer than the one they included would have also worked. I would suspect this is less of an issue on the road 11s stuff though
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YOU DON’T KNOW ME!
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Tfw you are 7 secure lock nipples short of a full wheel build
Guess I’m doing spoke prep instead and not lacing these til tomorrow
Oh hey, my AR56 from light bicycle died inside the 3 year warranty period.
They did have 8000 miles on em and cased more badness and lived beyond my wildest expectations. Couple weeks ago on my morning ride on the empty mup I was railing around well known turns and absolutely smashed this without noticing:
I was sure I’d broke the wheel from the sound but it looked fine. Few rides later on a long descent the wheel stopped holding tension and began rubbing. Upon closer inspection, it was done.
So, new rims time.
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Looking for hub recommendations. Building up some 50mm carbon rims I sourced from parts unknown (wheel manufacturer has unbranded stock). $360 shipped for rims only
looking for best value recommendations on 24h disc hubs and spokes
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DT 350!
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That’s the answer I got when I asked and even though I needed twice as many as normal to build two sets for one bike and it was fuckin expensive I’m glad I got em.
For cheap, cheap, I’ve been meaning to try Bitex. I think they’re probably OEM for a lot of wheel manufacturers, but I always fail to cheap out and usually end up on DTs.
The value of a dt 350 hub set is basically unbeatable. Endless miles, super simple service (that you rarely need), swappable end caps mean it works on whatever bike.
Not the lightest, but who cares it’s hubs. And the ratchet upgrade is probably fine, I haven’t been moved to do it.
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18>36 is a worthwhile upgrade ATMO
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I was gonna do the bitex hubs on my LB wheel set, but then @EndpointBraden mentioned that their center lock hubs might have some funkiness. So another set of 350s entered my life instead.
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Bitex (6 bolt) boost to LB on my 29er have been totally fine. Mostly dry, only two really wet sloppy rides on them. Have bike parked a bit but I’m more of a wheelie drop guy than a gap jump guy. 99% of their miles are dusty fast singletrack with <1’ drops. Man of substance approved.
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Never had issues with the 6-bolt ones here either.
What were the problems with the center lock? Also do you have any insight as to who might be using them for an OEM supplier?
The CLD ones use a different freehub mechanism. The pawl springs have issues with return strength so they will sometimes catch and make a nasty pop/bang when going from coasting to high torque.
I don’t know who is using them besides Origin8 and RodeoLabs to be honest. There is an outwardly similar-looking hub from Novatec that pops up from time to time that is internally different. I think some folks assume is Bitex. Some of the hubs that I have seen on Hunt wheels are similar to Bitex as well but the ones I have seen have been something else for sure. Bearpawls also has similar-looking hubs that use a more robust mechanism.
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I have a CL BX106 wheelset I built that does the popping thing. It either started immediately after I read about it here, or was something I didn’t notice for 4 years, until I read about it here 
Don’t read!
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Gotcha. I think I know the noise that y’all are talking about.
That’s too bad. I suppose for the price it might be tolerable. Any other complaints @drandalls ?