Is there a wheelbuilding thread yet?

No, I like the hub. It has a pleasant buzz and has worked fine even in a lot of rain and dirt/mud.

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I never got around to testing this but since you have some maybe go for it…

I tried some lighter freehub grease and didn’t get any improvement BUT Dumonde Tech makes the freehub OIL that I9 uses in their hydra hubs. Might be worth wiping it all out really well and trying some of that.

Didn’t old zip hubs spec like 10-30 motor oil on their pawls. I’d imagine that’d be totally fine.

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Chris king says use 10 40

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I havent had any issues with the CL Bitex hubs yet. Have a handful out in the wild under heavy riders with the HG freehubs and I’m on the N3W freehub but don’t put out much power.

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Maybe they changed it? I couldn’t get a straight answer from anyone.

I killed a rim brake bitex. Pawls deformed and didn’t release. Turned into fixie 15 miles from home

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You’re on the far end of the bell curve when it comes to abusing freehubs though dude.

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Rim brake and CLD are same internals afaik.

True.

My guy Dave is fixing to build a new rear wheel for his Velomobile. Leaning towards a Rohloff hub and has it narrowed down to probably a particular Spank rim. If I can get good details on exactly what he wants to use can the team of experts here determine spoke lengths?

Yea. The DT calculator is free and the QBP one is available to anyone with a Q account. Never hurts to check both. I think the Q one usually reports a teeny bit short but not always.

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I like pro wheel builder. It’s never steered me wrong.

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I like EDD, I usually use it and the DT one:

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Make sure whatever calculator you use reports the spoke-to-rim angle, as a big hub on a small rim might require a smaller crossing number to keep that in tolerance

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Also rohloff is picky about how they want their hubs laced so read the manual

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You need Rohloff spokes for Rohloff hubs lol.

Wow I could never find a right website for getting a 36h SP PD-8 and a Mavic D321 but this has them!! 3 cross gets 255.3 on one side, 256.4 on the other! (They’re an even 265 if I do four-cross but that seems annoying.)

I don’t usually measure because I always want to order together. I do always check any database against mfgr’s specs cause people make mistakes. Also I don’t think pieces of mms actually exist so I would order 256 both sides. Atmo

also that hub is symmetrical so something doesn’t make sense