Well dang, I thought I remembered discussion on such a thing that existed out of the box. Maybe it was a bike part that someone wished existed.
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What I setup was an IQ-XE ebike light with a 12v battery pack and a DC connector from Amazon. I’ll share links to that later when I’m on a computer.
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okay so I don’t want a dyno now?
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That was the heretical conclusion Judge Fred proposed.
Something about stizvos and USB-C and splicing battery cells together or some such.
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Very gear-focused ultra endurance riders have done math that suggests that from a systemic efficiency standpoint midsized battery bank beats dyno IF you can recharge regularly during time that you would have been stopped and resting.
To me it seems like having a dyno that trickle charges a smallish battery is the optimal solution, but I’m not trying to ride across the Gobi Desert on my road bike
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Here’s what I bought. The battery is nothing fancy and is something you’ll want to avoid getting wet since it doesn’t seem to have any sealing. There’s a smaller 3000mAh Talentcell pack that’s like $28 if you don’t need/want something this big. There’s probably other fancier options from other companies but I didn’t want to spend the time shopping for something else.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C
My light was already wired with a compatible DC connector, so I just needed this male-to-male extension to connect the battery. You may want a 5.5mm x 2.1mm long pigtail connector to wire to the light or something like this and a shorter pigtail.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BQ81DSS
Chat about this stuff happened starting roughly after Fred’s post here:
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This thing?
is there anything to worry about this system in the rain?
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The battery for sure. I keep it in a bag with the extension cable sticking out so it’s easy to unplug when the bag comes off the bike. Not sure about the connectors.
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Zackally
Edit: damn the reviews on that thing are rough.
I’m building up my last 2 dynamos
Can you run a dyno light off 9vdc?
No in general they are either mediocre with DC input or don’t work, almost all good dynamo headlights really only want AC input
The median e-bike headlight does well with 12-15V DC, some of the newest models are documented to want max 15V input, where some older ones say yolo up to 60V straight off a bigger e-bike battery.
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All I’m reading here is that I’ll be happy to take all the discarded dynamo hubs
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Hoovering up dyno hubs like cast off rim brake Serottas from braceline.
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I thought the Outbound lights interview on Bikerumor was pretty interesting. Could be spin for all I know, but some of what he said sounded legit to me.
I, too, am trying to find The Judge’s guide on battery-powering an IQ-X. I read it, bought an IQ-X, and now can’t figure out what other parts I need.
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Thanks. Queued up for a listen in the morning.
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That was cool. That guy came off exactly how he came off when I asked for a CAD model for the gopro mount for my old light because I wanted to do it in aluminum. He said something along the lines “dimension X is critical and if you can have it CNC’d then you probably have the ability to model the rest”. Then he proceeded to give me three good reasons why it was a bad idea. He was right.
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It needs to be the “IQ-X E” specifically
you need a USB-C “Power Delivery” battery pack, and a special cable that matches one of the voltage outputs that are labeled on the battery
15 Volts is the most commonly compatible option for nice batteries
Here’s another vendor that offers all four options of 9/12/15/20:
https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-JacobsParts-Type-C-Trigger-Connector/dp/B08NTTK8S9?th=1
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