Indeed! I ran copper foil tape down the fork legs, nearly to the wireless SON hub. And I fashioned wire clips that snap onto either side of the hub, standing up tall enough to touch the leg tape. Also used a plastic washer cut from an OxyClean lid to insulate the hub from the dropout. I can post current pics if anyone needs help. It’s worked way better than I expected.
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I’ve been riding for about 6 months with the lego brick jammed onto my SON hub and it’s been fine…until a couple of weeks ago when it started not working intermittently.
I started using the lego because I got a second wheelset with a Shimano dynohub. The spade connectors look janky but I commuted with them for a long time (including a bunch of slushy, salty winters) and had zero problems.
I also use the brick with my SON. No bulking. I just push it laterally if it isn’t making connection. One day perhaps I’ll actually do something about it.
Pic me pls
Most of the copper foil tape is now buried under electrical tape, but there’s a bit peaking out at the bottoms of the fork legs. You’ll get the idea.
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Update! It occurred to me just now that ballpoint pen springs may be the better option for firming up the power clip contacts.
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I’ve considered using copper tape along the top tube for the rear light connection. Any tips/words of warning? Did you just solder the wire to the copper tape? Do you have to cover it all with electrical tape?
I didn’t solder anything, just sandwiched the wire between two layers of copper tape. The copper is pretty fragile so I covered it with e tape. I have a zip tie over the wire/tape junctions to keep them smushed together. That was supposed to be temporary for proof of concept, but it’s worked well enough that I haven’t changed it.
Clear tape over copper might look great.
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I didn’t realize there were different models of SON hubs still.
Jan says SON 28 is heavier than SON Delux, but looking at 12mm CL it’s ~20g.
From what I can tell the 28 is more light at low speeds, more power for charging devices while riding. And the Delux is just the newer more efficient model?
Any reason to sweat a 28 rather than SON delux for pavement?
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Doesn’t really matter. I have the 28 and have gone slow enough for the lights to go out (thompson pass incline, midnight)
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It’s not that it’s more efficient, the Delux puts out less voltage at a given wheel RPM so you have to go a little faster to get the same output. It was originally designed for smaller wheels that spin faster, but it’s been adopted by people who want a little less drag.
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this logic is why I got the SON Delux on my 650B roadie and the SON 28 on my wagon-wheeled gravel bike - the gravel bike has lower wheel RPM for a given speed, and gets ridden slower in general. But honestly, I can’t really tell the difference. Both feel like the drag is imperceptible, both get flickery on slow climbs.
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I kinda wonder how much it’s the light, too. IQ-X flickers a lot below 7mph on a 700x32 tire with different hubs
Luxos U flickers at low speed
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in this case, both bikes in question have the same light setup: the SON headlight and taillight
that said, agreed that the light also makes a big difference in the onset of flickering. The combo of a Shimano 3N72 hub + B&M Eyc on my basket bike is seemingly entirely immune to flickering until I get to ridiculously low speeds. Probably has a lot to do with the minimal light output of that headlight…
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My secret is to ride lots of cargo bikes with 406mm front wheels, but use a normal dyno. Instant blazing light!
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This has been my experience, too. Lil’ guys rarely flicker. IQ-X gonna flicker when you ain’t cookin’.
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and the standlight sucks. but it’s a fine light otherwise. might get a cyo premium senso plus of whatever else it’s called next time instead. better beam, low speed, standlight. less lux but once you’re dark enough you won’t notice anyway
Why don’t get senso, just get the regular cyo premium with the stand light.