it wouldn't be tarck without a dyno thread

i’m dreading the day and even bought the 15-12ta jawns but if it comes down to it i should probably just get a searchlight fork

any idea if exposure branded hubs were before or after the switch?

No idea.

for reference, i’m pretty sure all the thru axle hubs and the 9-series have only been at the new factory, and the 8-series QR hubs switched over to the new factory sometime in mid-to-late 2016. They also changed aesthetics at this point: old, new.

my very dim recollection is the new style had teething issues when they were first introduced, but I might be wrong about that. It would be interesting for folks with failed ones to sound off on which version they had.

some brief goog image searching shows exposure branded hubs in both the old and new pattern.

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How did y’all mount lights on cylde fork? I have an old Eyc I was planning on using for it, but don’t have a bracket that’ll work with the braze-on. Is this an old cut-up chainring/centerpull brake arm type of situation?

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nicely protected from dropping the bike!

I’m doing this on a rack at the moment; might try and see if this could get me a good location on the clyde

Same concept but heavier and more expensive. I used a light mount tab I bought from cyclefab 8 years ago, a presta nut (not needed for hourglass mounts) a fender mounting disc caliper spacer, and a long m5 nutnbolt

Edit: thinking ‘bout trimming the spacer a bit

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I did this today. Wanted to get the light out from under the saddle so I can mount a butt rocket (I am actually going to go bike camping this weekend!). However I feel Iike I am going to hate. Tempted to go back to p-clamp mount (it was mounted to the rack eyelet previously)

edit: I got the angle slightly wrong and also routed the wire on the DS for some reason. if nothing else I will likely drill more holes to move it up half an inch and reroute the wires on the NDS

Will use something like this, or exactly this, when I get a light for the Clyde fork. All leftovers from other bike projects. A brake adapter would also work.


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Anyone used a canti brake booster for mounting a headlight? I’m thinking that might be my best option for a bike where the fork crown is occupied by the brake cable hanger.

Yes, it’s a cross check

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When I was in this situation I used the B&m mount that is basically a headset spacer. Really solved it by switching to v-brakes.

https://www.bike24.com/p2242391.html

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Has anyone heard anything about the new Supernova light? I see Sofiane is using one in the tour divide.

Anyone have any tips on fixing the wires to the plug on the sv hubs? Wrap and solder to itself? Add copper tape?

Are you putting enough wire into the connector to wrap around where the little grooves are on the inner piece?

I thought so but maybe I need to rerun the fork wire to leave me longer copper to work with?

its just wrap it around a couple of times and kind of tie it to the plastic?

images (2)

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thank you

I hate it

I was trying to describe it from memory

now that the diagram refreshed my memory its even jankier than I remembered

That diagram is even better. My First Dyno Hub didn’t come with those instructions and I was v confused about how even to that connector, not realizing that it was supposed to come apart for wiring.

I’ve always left a lengthy enough section from the fork to the hub so there’s plenty of slack between the two without it being long enough to get caught up in the spokes. Seems like I’m remembering that the SP connector is a tighter fit than the Shimano, but haven’t had a problem yet on either with the wire pulling out of the connector, even when I forget to unplug it before removing the wheel.

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