it wouldn't be tarck without a dyno thread

I really think you could make it work like this:

  1. Remake your reach-under mount from the back of the fork crown.
  2. Reinforce with a baby hoop of fender strut or whatever that attaches to both fork legs at the uppermost cage eyelet.

The next time you want to use fork cages you’ll need to use presta valve nuts or whatever to space out the other cage mount locations. OR perhaps you can drill/tap the cages themselves and mount the hoop to them instead.

I kind of had this sketched out a while ago. There are a few ways it could be made, especially if it needed to be adjustable to fit different forks, or just to use whatever materials you have on hand.

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Or just make the same out of ss. Bending aluminum is usually a bad idea

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My friend has one of these, I’ll test out fit on it.

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This is great. I had envisioned a similar design when I was trying to solve this in my head but it attached to the top two fork eyelets instead of the back of the crown.

My iq-x just stopped working, tail light still works so I know it’s getting power. Is there a common fault on these things? I’d like to open it up and see if something g came loose that I could re-solder

I had the standlight LEDs vibrate themselves off of the PCB on which they were mounted. the big light still worked though, so different failure mode, but it might be worth checking if there’s a bum capacitor or something in there.

Here’s the comprehensive teardown. Notably the lens cap thingy is reverse threaded, iirc. EDIT: both end caps are reverse threaded.

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Bookmarking this for the future

I just bought my 4th IQ-X. Two in use on my commuters, one waiting for a wheelbuild on a 3rd bike and the 4th for my e-cargo bike (IQ-X E). Luckily none have failed but that’s a nice link thanks.

Made a little mount that screws into those little holes in the back of the Giles Berthoud saddle for my taillight. Trying out ditching my rear rack and needed a new spot for the light.

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did you drill the top of the seatpost to route the taillight wire internally?

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No, just kept it simple and ran it up the post externally. Not 100% sure if this will be it’s final home.

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I ride with an Edelux mounted to a HC porteur rack. I pat myself on the back on each MUP for not blinding the oncoming commuters with my beam going where I need to see. Still, a driver at a stop sign once tried to run me over and as I was flipping him off, he said he couldn’t see me. I was dressed like a pylon, but after I cooled off, I wondered if that edelux beam mounted low does in fact suck for being seen.

So am looking to supplement with a be-seen light and am looking for feedback. My current logic is to get a helmet-based light for urban commute visibility. The premise is that drivers can see me over parked car more readily than a bar mounted blinky.

I’m looking at this Lumos Ultra. Is this a bad idea? I hate idea of having to remember to charge the light, but I like safety more.

Ha, wait until you get sworn at by a recumbent rider!

But to your question: I just use reflectors at that point. I have what are basically slap bracelets but reflective, looped through the front corners of my basket.

In my use case, the car at the stop light isn’t pointing it’s headlights at me (as I approach whilst having the right-of-way), so am worried the reflectors won’t do much.

I’m struggling to picture the scenario but I agree that the lower you mount the higher the chance of the light getting obscured/missed.

I’ve had similar visibility dithering thoughts but have ended up with more reflectors as I don’t want to deal with chargeing.

If I really had to do ‘be seen’ lights I like the idea of helmet integrated lights and have done a rear helmet light before.

For a fully integrated thing I’d be keen to see IRL before buying, partially just for helmet fit etc. but also to see if the lights are any good. I think Australia also might not get many of these due to different helmet regs FWIW.

I have the front and rear Bontrager Flare lights on my helmet (they mount magnetically plus a small plastic tab).

I also have handlebar-mounted Bontrager Ion headlight, and can control all three lights with a remote:

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Lazer makes a rear helmet light that works OK for my needs.

I prefer a helmet light that’s more aim-able and more of a spotlight.

Aimable is good with a narrow beam so you can get it right where you want depending on body position. (I like to close my eyes briefly then open without moving my head, adjust light until its right where I want it in a natural position).

Narrow beam is good because 1) you can rotate your head slightly to not blind oncoming cyclists, and 2) you can very pointedly aim a beam of light right through the side window of for example cars rolling up from side streets. Really good for getting driver attention IME.

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I use a Petzl headlamp in the winter for this reason and it makes a noticeable difference. They make sticky pads you can mount their lamps too, but I eventually found the little tab thingies that you can just put the whole strap under so you don’t have to remove the lamp from the strap.

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