Ok so I bought the SON28 and I’m educating myself about their coaxial connectors and cables instead of the standard stuff.
I really like the look and low profile of the coaxial connector for the hub itself but DAMN are these connectors expensive as all get out. The hub connector is like $30, the y junction another $30, the little solder on connectors several more. I could buy a whole other Shimano dynamo for that. The B&M wiring I’ve used in the past is like $4 for everything you need to wire up a front/rear light.
Is there some sort of generic version of this? Mostly I want a decent looking connector for the hub itself. The massive spade connectors seem… Clunky.
The spade connectors aren’t elegant but they work perfectly fine. I neglected mine commuting through a dozen slushy and salty NYC winters and they never gave me problems. You can use the Shimano lego connector on Schmidt spades but in my experience, you have to shim them and they’re more likely to lose contact.
I like coax cable for bikes that need a full run of both wires to the taillight. It’s more robust and lays flatter. But I buy it from Perennial with the spade connectors already attached.
I think I’m looking at doing the spade connectors with a 2mm banana plug a few cm upstream to allow disconnect at the wheel. Looks like that’s what some other folks around the 'net have done.
That’s a good idea. I have a bike with two dyno wheel sets, one SP and one SON. Since they have different connectors, I considered doing the same thing so that could use spades on one and the lego connector on the other, disconnecting at the banana when I swap wheels. But then I got the lego working well on SON and forgot about that little project.
Lifetime supply of spade connectors from the jungle for pennies
The bananas are cute but I replaced them with male/female spades. The wire snaps at the edge of the solder joint. I was using double heat shrink but the still worried loose.
I think the one that kept breaking was on coax. I pulled all of that and replaced it as well. Wires were too thin.
you’re never really going to disconnect them. most of the time when I am doing something that I need the connector the system has taken enough of a beating that I just end up redoing a section of the wiring anyway.
they are easy enough to use if you do
there is a word for the rubbery reinforcement around the extension cord near the plug that keeps the wire from wiggling back and forth, so it doesn’t break, and I have been blanking on that word for the last two days that we have been having this conversation but that is the thing that it is hard to replicate on the banana plugs.
I finally realized why my front light stopped working. Spade connector got bent and broken at some point. Probably because the wire was just a tad too short after its last re-routing. Probably time to get some more wire and new spades. Anyone know what the size is on those so I can order some up.
lol curious if the 32h version and the 24h 2:1 lacing are the same hubshell design, or if they clocked the 2x disc side spoke flange differently
I’ve built several modern road disc dynamo wheels as “24 spokes on a 36 hole hub” which is 2.17x to work around this gap in the market for thru-axle hubs 36-24 Spoking, by Damon Rinard
I dropped the bike and broke the mount off my cyo and replaced it with iq-x everything about it is better except the spade connections on the cyo are fixed and recessed and Hal hidden and nice and the others seem to all just have wires hanging out the back
