I’ve been messing with both the new Klite dynamo lights, and USB charger. So much work has gone into these designs. The gravel/road variant of the light is so bright that when I tested it up against my Exposure Revo I could barely tell when the Revo was on. The MTB version has less punch up the middle but an incredibly wide spread. None of them have the square cut-off beam pattern FYI.
DQ: I’ve been running the SP hub formerly on my Boulder, now on my Shawver opposate of the arrows printed on it for years because the wire guides on the Boulder fork are on the NDS for some reason. Is this a problem? It’s always worked flawlessly.
Yeah, if you have always run it backwards its probably not going to unthread at this point.
running it backwards just makes your headlight a taillight smfh
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running it backwards absorbs light from the outside and turns the hub into a motor
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Holy shit. Tarck breaking new ground. How long until perpetual motion?
E-bike, solar charger, dyno light pointed at solar panel.
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i think you need the old nexave di2 rear hub dynamo for that. if you can fit a capreo freehub body on it we might be in business.
Perpetual energy discovered
Man, fuck that e-moped so much.
Updates on the Trelock LS905 headlight and the Sram D7 hub:
I just took the test bike out for a night ride. Rolling out the hub felt nice and quiet, but as I dropped down through the gears I got a horrible buzz around 15mph. I groaned, this dyno can’t be that shitty? Yeah, it has the internals of the cheap Sanyo dyno but it has 36 poles which should make it smooth. I kept accelerating and the buzz started to go away, and at around 20mph I could barely tell it was on. Well that’s odd.
The headlight however was doing great. The beam shape is nearly perfect, and this definitely is better than the Cyo Premium which I was testing at night a few days earlier. It is narrower so if you have a lot of twisty corners maybe the wider beam of the Cyo is worth the tradeoff. But overall I was impressed.
At one point, riding along the bike path, I hit the brakes hard to cut off on a little Scooby trail (a NorCal shred portal) and the headlight dimmed. Huh? Riding further I experimented hitting the brakes and if I gave them a good squeeze it looked like the light was dropping down to a lower power mode. The 905 only has one mode, but its big brother the 906 has a remote switch that can switch between a low and high beam. Cranky Dutch Guy complained about his 906 getting stuck in low power mode with the funky Renak hub, so maybe the sudden drop in voltage was fooling the light internals or something?
I was feeling pretty annoyed that both of my new test subjects seemed to have annoying flaws. A hub that buzzes badly right in the middle of my cruising range, and a light that goes dim when you hit the brakes.
As the ride went on, I had to admit that the light was really good from a beam standpoint. Maybe the LS906 doesn’t have the same problem when the switch installed? I wondered if I should order one (and an IQ-X just to be sure). The hub was generally good as long as I wasn’t going 15 mph.
On the way back my phone went off with a text from my wife, and while I pulled it out with my right hand I used my left hand (rear brake) to brake to a stop. This time the light almost went out. What the hell? I didn’t brake as hard as I had earlier. After putting the phone away and starting up I experimented with stopping with just the front, and just the rear. The rear made the light dim. The front did nothing.
Oh yeah.
This is the bike where I was experimenting by running the power to the taillight down the rear brake housing. It looks like when I pulled the brake hard enough I could cause a short somewhere. When I got home, I disconnected the frame ground at the headlight and went out again. This time the light stayed just as bright when I hit the brakes. So problem solved diagnosed.
So at least I have still have a good light. The hub on the other hand is going to have to come out and hopefully there’s a Shimano hub I can reuse the spokes on. The brake housing as power lead is going to need a little more investigating.
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Lol I’ve done the same thing. For me it was grabbing the front brake, I’d get a short on my front v-brake with the connectors dangling from my headlight. Electrical tape fixed that!
And for the record, I’ve got the cheap Sanyo hub on my LHT and I’ve got several thousand miles without any vibrations or feedback.
So we’ve heard about the Shimano thru-axle dyno, looks like there’s a new QR XT too:
It looks like the smaller body of the 1.5W hubs, but this one is 3W based on the model number and specs.
(edit)
Looking at the 2018-2019 Range book, it’s the QR version of the thru-axle hub UR-705.
TC: I wish Shimano made their hubs pretty.
It’s a stupid thing to complain about but I always hated the recess in one side of my XT dyno hub. It seemed to collect more mud/crud than a front hub should.
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I think the recess looks cool, I wish my hub had one.
yeah I think my LX hub looks fuckin cool
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Agreeing with this
Count me in the asymmetrical recess looking dumb cru. That XT looks significantly better but still prefer the luscious curves of the SP/Schmidt hubs.
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