it wouldn't be tarck without a dyno thread

I’m wondering what the weight is for the new XT DH-UR700 and DH-UR705 hubs

I just built up two wheelsets with SP 12mm hubs, but now I’m kinda wishing at least one of those was XT

My SP hub from about 3 years ago makes a horrible creaking/groaning sound.

I thought it was the brake at first, and spent a bunch of hours trying to fix it before I figured out that it’s coming from the hub. You can hear the groan, but also feel the resistance from whatever is rubbing together.

What do i do?

I’m excited about the new generation of shimano dynos!! I still have my circa 2009 shimano, now on dadbike duty. Its held together with jb weld on the locknuts, cones pitted af but the power output has never been the least bit flakey.

sorry wesbarf, it sounds like you need a new hub to me. :frowning:


New Shimano alfine 1.5w doesn’t look horrible. Works great too.

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Wesbarf, you should donate your hub to someone that has access to a machine shop so an autopsy can be performed. It sure would be nice to service these things.

I’d love to see some dyno hubs cut in half on a band saw along the axis of the axle.

Does anybody know where I can find the spoke hole diameter and flange width on the new Shimano hubs? Any chance it can just be a hub swap with an SP?

No chance for the second part, Shimano flanges are much higher than SP’s. This is the entry QBP has for the new XT hub. No idea how accurate it is, as QBP has been wrong before.

That’s the old “new” XT-8000 hub which has the same stepped body as the other models, just with a different model number (it was xt-785 I think). The “new” UR-700 hub sure looks close to the 1.5W bodies, but I don’t know if it actually is the same, or just a similar construction.

If they are using the 1.5W body, then that could potentially swap with a SP, depending on the model. Based on some quick numbers, it looks like a .5mm calculated spoke length difference with a 3x build.

If the Shimano is a drop-in for SP hubs that would be huge.

I’m demoting my draggy SP to my townie bike and replacing it with my old SON that got left behind since it wasn’t laced to a tubeless rim.

Looking at the photo of UR-700 and scaling off the axle, it looks like the spoke hole diameter is about 52mm.

FYI, my buddy used one of these in the weekend as a cache battery for his GPS, and it seemed to exhibit actual pass-through charging. So when he slowed down, the GPS blipped and the power bank chimed in. Unfortunately over $50 in NZ.

I’d advise against lights on the non-driveside regardless of other technical reasons, unless very well protected under a rack. People tend to lay their bikes against walls or on the ground on the non-driveside and I’ve seen lights get fucked up that way.

I almost always walk my bike on the NDS and lean the DS against stuff.

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The new K-lite dynamo light stuff is officially launched today. Some pix below. I previously said it wasn’t a square cut-off beam, apparently it is. Two main light styles, two floods and a centre spot for bikepacking and two spots and one flood for the gravel/road version. The new built in standlite is much better. Mount is via gopro but can be used various ways. Lots of cool touches with the new USB converter which is sunk in transparent epoxy and has a red light so you know it’s going. A few details here. http://www.bikepacking.com/news/klite-bikepacker-ultra/

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Too fucking good.

needs a tiny bandanna

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No effort into the optics, those look like standard flashlight lenses. I used to have a homebrew dyno setup that combined a spot and a horizontal flood like that. It’s better than a pure spot but doesn’t have a sharp cutoff (which might be fine for brappacking)

Lol