Are you talking about an additional circuit board attached to the chassis or just a little floating board in series with the battery wires?
I’m pretty sure that the overdischarge protection is part of the battery charging circuit on the main board.
I have no luck finding small non-cell LiFePO4 so I got some in CR2. I have no idea if they’ll fit but it’s worth a try.
I mean the little board added to each cell, all the potential replacements have this where the original doesn’t, and I’m not sure if it might interfere with the Luxos’ operation (something something high-frequency switching)
Haven’t been able to find specifically LiFePo pouch cells either
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Does your light come with LiFePO4 or LiPo? I think mine is a first gen light. The charging and discharge cutoff voltage are a lot lower for LiFePO4 cells.
Extra protection boards shouldn’t matter for an exact chemistry replacement. All they do is cut off the battery above and below certain voltage. If you swapped from LiFePO4 to LiPo, the protection boards are actually very good to have because the protection circuit on the light wouldn’t work. The LiPo should get charged slower and never fully charge on a board built for LiFePO4, but if it gets the light going again that’s all that really matters.
Possibly more of a shart q but is it a bad idea to drill small holes in a top tube to route dynamo wires? I recall some people on here having drilled frames to run wires but not sure of what their experience was. Fwiw, will be in turdly non butted 1990’s mtb cromoly frame which I am assuming gives me some margin of error.
Drill goes brrr brrr brrrr!
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I’ve seen head tubes and downtubes drilled for di2, had a seatpost drilled for stealth dropper. If it’s not some Gucci tubed planey bike then go for it, get it in the thick meat between the HAZ of the weld and the butt, if it’s got butts.
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Drilling went fine, Looking at the tube thinkness as drilled I’m not stressed about strength. Dramas, however, ensued when I tried to fish the wires though the frame. I had a join in the wire which broke mid-tube when fishing it though so I now have a loose ~30cm section of wire permanently stored inside my top tube. Lucky this bike has so many rattles that one more is nbd.
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I once shoved a bunch of foam insulation into a top tube
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it’s great stuf!
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Oh man, spray foam insulation would totally solve that problem. Followed by cats, then gorillas
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you forgot the snake and mongoose
The SP that I ordered in mid May has just been updated to expected late August.
Eventually the Telekom will have a matching front wheel…
Critique my light setup. It’s on a Topeak Versamount. Not much adjustability, but it seems like the angle is straight enough.
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Does anyone know if the dyno assys in the dht785/780 and dh3n80 are interchangeable? They have different part numbers but look very similar, and more like each other than assys for some other models.
Friend trying to source one for his 3N80, but nothing available in AU, euro stores don’t ship shimano to Australia and Amazon UK (which does) only has the T785 option.
I’m impressed that you have been able to find replacements. Do you have any links to share? This really drinks that new Merry Sales “field serviceable” dynamo’s milkshake imo.
EV-DH-T785-3193
EV-DH-3N80-2732A
Look up these PDFs for the part numbers:
Amazon UK https://www.amazon.com.au/Shimano-Spares-DH-T785-Internal-Assembly/dp/B00G98Q0MO
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Holy crap
Sorry I only have one 
to give this
I knew this stuff existed in theory bitd but could find no trace. Now between this and the replacement cones you can find everywhere, Shimano is hands down the most robustly user serviceable dynamo imi.
You’re gonna want to move that light up if you want to see where your going while turning left.
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It’s as high as it goes without hitting the downtube though. A lot of compromises going on here. I might just only turn right at night.
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