Fist handwear gloves have held up well. I’m an XXL and they usually tear between the thumb and index finger. The palm on hand ups wore out on the palm. A pair of very minimal specialized gives wore out very quickly.
Two mounted on the weird tri back of the seat bracket
If you only used one mount hole per holder, you could get six on a modern poop barn fork
2 Likes
What say we about this dither to make my pre-2015 record derailleur a long cage, so that I don’t have to have the kludge of a tail hook lengthener? I don’t really care about the oversized pulley aspect, more the cage lengthening bit.
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ATMO what issue are you trying to solve? To my understanding:
Tail hook lengthener is to keep your pulleys from crashing into the largest cog, when using a cassette with bigger-than-factory-rated large cog size. Doesn’t necessarily help with chain slack take-up capacity.
Longer cage is for more capacity to take up slack in the chain, in terms of total drivetrain range. So useful if you are using a larger-than-factory cassette, but on it’s own doesn’t help with keeping the pulleys from crashing into the biggest cog.
trying to run a larger than factory rated cog size is the problem I’m looking to solve. The tail hook lengthener lets me do it, but cross chaining is not an option (I try not to, but sometimes it happens) and shift quality is definitely a bit degraded. So, kind of looking to address both of those things. Is that to say that I’d, ideally, want to use a long cage and a lengthener to address both chain slack and keeping off the cog? I thought the extra length of the cage would do that.
the long cage + tailhook lengthener may allow you to run a longer chain and give you the cross chaining but you’re still going to have the degraded shift quality.
the long cage without lengthener will likely have the top pulley smash into your cassette
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Cool, will save my dollarydoos then
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I had full range of cross chaining on my open with an 11-42 on the back with a 34/46 on the front. That’s with a THL and a wifi dangler that was rated to 34 on the back I think. Maybe that’s more gravgrav than your application?
This would be on a pavement bike running 52/36 and 11-32
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Ah yup. I never had the same result when I did it on my roadie. Even with 52/39. It’s sram 2x now and I often wonder about throwing on a nice 2x 10 speed clutched dangler to dither a bit.
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I’ve been thinking decision-tree of sorts that would basically explain/narrow down where one’s future N+1 metal bike would come from…and the early forks seem to be:
- Do you want a non-plastic fork made by person/company who made your frame?; and
- Do you care about having a dangler clutch?
- Dicks or rim braking
These 3 decisions really make a lot of choices for you if building from scratch.
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SMOOTAPE
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Wahoo just added a climbing mode. I guess that’s cool.
Was on my way home and my computer booped and said, “CLIMB!”
Frankly, I wasn’t in the mood for it.
Sometimes when the hammerhead climb thing pops up I make a “pshhh” noise while I swipe down to hide it.
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This smootape is fake news. They just mean it won’t be lumpy. It very clearly still overlaps.
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