I guess Trickstuff are the best, because of reduced weight (of you wallet, and less weight is easier to stop sooner).
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SRAM brakes work just fine (in terms of stopping the bike) in my experience, but they always feel mushy and bleeding them is a major hassleā¦and dot 5.1 fluid is hella toxic. Like, having to pressurize the lever on SRAM road stuff seperately from the lineā¦IDK, I have never had issue bleeding Shimomos, always easyā¦the mineral oil wonāt give me nerve damage, and the cleaner engagement feeling on the brakes is a nice plus.
TRP combines mineral oil and same bleed procedure as Shimano with the really nice progressive lever feel of Sram somehow. The T4s are amazing for how cheap they are and for bigger riders that we have put on the Quadium 4 piston brakes the feedback as been beyond positive.
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I hate bleeding Shimano brakes so much. Iāve only done SRAM once but may have preferred it solely because everything threads on. Very into those TRP brakes as a potential future upgrade.
Yeah, its strange that Shimano hasnāt adopted threaded bleed holes on the caliper
Yea threaded would be better - but Iāve found that unlike SRAM I can often get away with simply putting the little cup friend on and jiggling the line/flicking the lever and Iāll get some bubbles out. Quick āfield bleedā works for minor bits of air bubbles, with SRAM it seems like youāve gotta do a full bleed no matter what but maybe Iām just bad at it.
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Did you try to just bleed the caliper for SRAM?
Sram really isnāt that hard. Complicated, sure, but once you figure out the process, it works fine. It just takes patience to get all them bubbles out.
But agree that some threaded interface to get all bubbles out would be nice. I always seem to get one in the syringe tube as I hook it up to the Shimano caliper.
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If you dislike the toilet bowl you can use this kit for double syringe pumping. http://www.bleedbicycles.com/shimano-disc-brake-bleed-kit-2012-and-newer/
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IME, you only need to bleed shimano at the lever. just leave the bike hanging by the front wheel, bubbles go up, lever bleed takes 5 minutes.
only hook up the rear if iām swapping out dirty fluid for all fresh stuff. full bleed is just annoying all around.
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I always do the full bleed (since I just do it like once a year for maintenance reasons) and yeah that caliper part is what is annoying.
So, just attach the funnel (filled with fluid) and repeatedly squeeze the lever?
-edit-
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How do i bleed SRAM hrd brakes and not die? If i want a moto setup (right-front left-rear) is it just a matter of unhooking the fluid lines? Will this kill me?
You will need to cut off the existing" Stealthamajigs" and replace them with new barbs/olives. Do not just disconnect hoses and switch them.
Current Red and Force AXS I just push back and fourth until no bubbles appear. None of that pressurizing the caliper or lever bs. Current shimano hydro road gets pushed from the bottom, a quick catch bag at the caliper once the lever funnel is full. Then lever squeezes until no bubble appear.
Admittedly, I know nothing about SRAM brakes, but isnāt that how the Stealthamajig is supposed to work? Thatās how it works on the Reverb remote.
Man, this sure makes wet brakes seem like a compelling replacement for cable-actuated ones.
We are talking different things. The threaded fitting on a Reverb remote can be re-used as it is just threading into a freshly cut piece of hose. The stealthamajig is a threaded barb with a t8 end and a red olive that reverse theads onto the barb. Once the compression nut has been torqued, those little bits can not be re-used. Same for every barb and olive on a hydro brake.
Fukka mechanical disc brake. Sure bb7s and spyres work fine when set up right. For flat bars a $30 altus brake is 10 times better than anything mech; I didnāt even bleed mine when I shorted the hoses and they feel and stop better than any mechanical dick Iāve tried. No reason a drop bar bike should have mechanical dick except for maybe cost savings. Even S&S bikes that I design are getting zip tie guides with hydro dicks; Just packed a 62cm drop bar coupled gravel bike in a soft case and didnāt even remove all the zip ties.
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General consensus seems to be Hope, new TRP jawnz, Trickstuff and Magura.
The higher spec/tier SRAM and Shimano ones are also considered great.
I spent all the time I saved not bleeding my BB7ās watching Hambini vids on the interwebs.
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