I just bought the shit already. No mess and works great stand alone. All my bikes are in and I keep looking at other bikes in my size for s&g.
yeah stand alone works totally fine. It crashes sometimes but its not a huge problem usually.
[quote=Endpoint]I have been riding the 650x42 jibbers on my coffeegrinder jobber. The kool aid is taking effect I think.
Blazedelfā¦ I know we tarckbeef at times, but youāre alright.[/quote]
Can we revisit your strong opinions about front end geometry for cyclocross/offroad riding with drop bars?
Imma about to have some. Longer slacker (front end that is) endpoint monstercross proto should be in my hands soon. Will be running it head to head against the traditional cx geo one I have been riding a while.
Iāve come to conclude the longer front center is one of my biggest beefs with my marinoni
current bike is about 620f-c, next bike will be about 1cm, maybe a bit more shorter. My kirk feels better offroad, but is a hair short at 600ish
This is what I got now:
73hta, 45mm rake and FC of 615mm. I specified it that way because I wanted more of a sport touring/winter roadie that I could race cross on if I wanted.
I get the feeling that itās not as good as it could be. Iāve noticed that itās a bit better with 30-34 tires than 38+ but I feel like the front end is loose and I get some wheel flop. Not loose as in stiffness but just requires too much input/muscle to keep it in line, if that makes any senseā¦
Would like to avoid that if end up building myself a dedicated cx race bike.
basically, āagility in the mountainsā is real
normal narrow drop bars work best with relatively low trail / not slack / not long fc
[quote=JUGE FREDD]
normal narrow drop bars work best with relatively low trail / not slack / not long fc[/quote]
And how do smallbros make that happen?
How narrow are we talking here Fred? <44?
ymmv but Iām liking 44-46cm cowbells over narrower bars for the monstercross machine. I run a 42 on everything else. This is a fairly standard cx geo though.
fwiw Andy from endpoint seems to echo Fredās opinion on his lowtrail partwagon. He has 42 fsa shallow drops which are more like 40.5 at the hoods. He likes.
isnāt stem length gonna be a significant function of handling too tho?
basically, āagility in the mountainsā is real
normal narrow drop bars work best with relatively low trail / not slack / not long fc[/quote]
How low is relatively low? If I shoot for <60mm trail and <620mm FC will I be getting all of it?
(this is on a bike that will not be carrying any kind of load)
The bike is the bike bruh
oh hey, fred front end geo chat
So this beast, the goal was for it to be a front-loading version of a monstercross matt chester type thing:
74 HTA, 660 mm f/c, 38mm trail, 185 cranks, 465mm chainstays (didnāt want to mess with dimpling for clearance at my first rodeo and all)
The good stuff: low trail is the business on road, it takes the line I point it at but I can just as easily change my mind and go for a different line without any advance notice.
Itās also a lot more nohands rideable than low trail bikes are reputed to be, fine as long as I keep leaning into the pedals and donāt sit up. Not sure whether thatās due to HA, CS and/or the rather massive gyroscopes.
Off road is a different story, feels like the front end digs in too much, hard to lift the front wheel, gets thrown off by roots and ruts too easily. On road if the front tire pressure is low it feels like the front end wants to tuck under in corners.
I suspect a lot of it is the chainstays being Too Damn Long putting more weight on the front but Iām not sure what role head angle is playing.
It turned out to be a full size too big contact points wise, so for v2 I was thinking of slackening the headtube while keeping trail and f/c the same, and trying to get the stays down to 43-44ish
Or?
That thing is so fucking bizarre and cool and I love seeing it.
Somebody, somewhere along the line, posted a brief how-to on converting an 8/9/10 speed freehub body to take 11.
Who was that? Anybody know where it is?
I did it! I donāt have a Guide per se, but hereās what I did.
You basically file/dremel/lathe (in order of most meatball to least meatball) the bits of metal that the cassette butts up against on the freehub body by 1.85mm, or as close as you can get; what you need to remove becomes apparent when you look at it, but itās hard to describe through text. This gets you just the right amount of room for the larger cassette.
I did it on an m785 rear hub with perfectly fine results, by sharpieing a mark on each stop in the correct width to act as a guide and then dremeling out the marks. Just go slow and be precise.
Really wanna do this on my 7700 rear hub too, but I should probably get that done on a lathe because titanium