try a Shimano triple fd before anything else, to get the front shifting better
also: obligatory zero setback seatpost comment
you must have got a professional fitting, right?
how is it you need a stem 4cm longer? just didn’t have right size on hand? that’s a huge discrepancy.[/quote]
4 cm longer because I’m an amateur when it comes to fitting. Because I have a crushed disc in my neck I tend to be conservative with reach, so I got an 8 cm stem figuring even if it was cramped I’d still be able to ride it. But after one ride it’s clear that I way underestimated where I should be positioned on this bike. It’s fine for now but I wouldn’t want to ride a century on it.
have you been to a fitter?
I ask because of the straight seatpost. After I got fit, my reach to the bars was the same, but the whole thing moved back a cm, which required a setback post.
And it helped everything. best money I ever spent on bike shit.
I had a bike fitting before the English was built, but the thing is my pain the neck is evolving over time, in fact at 5 years after the accident I finally seem to be getting better. At some point I’ll go for another, maybe in the spring.
All SRAM “road” derailleurs, Apex derailleurs, and 10-speed mountain derailleurs are interchangeable. So yes, it looks like you can use Campy 10s levers with the rest of your SRAM drivetrain.
When you upgrade that wheelset I assume you’ll get some weenier rotors, including a 140mm rear.
Table 2 indicates that C10 shakes pull 2.8mm and Sr1:1 10sp pull 3.1mm
Table 4 indicates that C10 shakes & Sr1:1 10sp mech = index pitch of 3.09mm on a cassette with a sprocket pitch of 3.95mm = no workie.
But experience trumps theory, so if it works, it works.
Edit: Somewhere there’s a link where someone measured a bunch of different shifters’ pull per click with a digital gauge. Can’t find it though. Averaging the pull over the entire range isn’t always representative.
Aha: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/2494144-post3.html
“Campy 10 shifters pull an average of 2.83mm of cable per shift, but that cable pull is not uniform. The first five shifts are only 2.5mm, the next two are 3mm and the last two are 3.5mm. SRAM shifters pull a uniform 3.1mm per shift, so even Campy 10 shifters are really not a good match with SRAM RD. I know that Lennard Zinn posted info about a Campy/SRAM setup but it makes no sense to me. It would take a Campy shifter 6 clicks to pull enough cable for 5 shifts of a SRAM RD. That’s a major error.”
[quote=jimmythefly]All SRAM “road” derailleurs, Apex derailleurs, and 10-speed mountain derailleurs are interchangeable. So yes, it looks like you can use Campy 10s levers with the rest of your SRAM drivetrain.
When you upgrade that wheelset I assume you’ll get some weenier rotors, including a 140mm rear.[/quote]
I’m actually a SICC rotor supporter. So yes I will have some weeny rotors.
Table 2 indicates that C10 shakes pull 2.8mm and Sr1:1 10sp pull 3.1mm
Table 4 indicates that C10 shakes & Sr1:1 10sp mech = index pitch of 3.09mm on a cassette with a sprocket pitch of 3.95mm = no workie.
But experience trumps theory, so if it works, it works.
Edit: Somewhere there’s a link where someone measured a bunch of different shifters’ pull per click with a digital gauge. Can’t find it though. Averaging the pull over the entire range isn’t always representative.
Aha: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/2494144-post3.html
“Campy 10 shifters pull an average of 2.83mm of cable per shift, but that cable pull is not uniform. The first five shifts are only 2.5mm, the next two are 3mm and the last two are 3.5mm. SRAM shifters pull a uniform 3.1mm per shift, so even Campy 10 shifters are really not a good match with SRAM RD. I know that Lennard Zinn posted info about a Campy/SRAM setup but it makes no sense to me. It would take a Campy shifter 6 clicks to pull enough cable for 5 shifts of a SRAM RD. That’s a major error.”[/quote]
Peter from Vecchio’s in Boulder mentioned that Zinn showed him that bike/setup. Said it shifted decently.
Is square taper the only option for getting acceptable chainline and clearance for the required monster chainring when using fixed/free hub?[/quote]
Frame is spaced 132.5
Chainring is actually only a 53t, just looks hueg since it’s 110bcd.
Have not measured chainline or anything yet, I’m hoping I can use a 6600 crankset with the 55t outer and do ok as a 1x10 (maybe with 135mm hub just to get that extra little bit).
CX-70[/quote]
he’s running a 30t small front? 32t?
CX-70 is rated down to like 34t, right?
obviously you can go beyond Shimanos ratings, but it’s not gonna perform as well.
why recommend that over a derailleur that is rated 30-52?
seems like all your shifting issues are upshifting, yes? ans a derailleur shaped to pick up off a 30t small ring would be superior.
I’m not just saying this hypothetically either, I have a 6603 pusher with a 30-46 and it works excellent.
[quote=Dirty Sanchez]
need an oversized HT for that, every damn full carbon disc fork has a tapered steerer (save for goofball longer ones intended for 26" mtb)[/quote]
Do you know of any standard 1.25" carbon dick forks besides Wound Up? Alloy steerers are acceptable.
[quote=hiljentaa][quote=Dirty Sanchez]
need an oversized HT for that, every damn full carbon disc fork has a tapered steerer (save for goofball longer ones intended for 26" mtb)[/quote]
Do you know of any standard 1.25" carbon dick forks besides Wound Up? Alloy steerers are acceptable.[/quote] reducer shim x whiskey/nashbar/bikeisland?
How much do you think it is the cranks? They look really interesting to me, but I have heard a few times that they don’t shift that well. Rad bike, btw.[/quote]
This.
I had those cranks paired with SRAM, and only had it set-up especially well for about a month of that bike’s entire life, the rest of the time it was always a bit klunky and slow shifting. Campy plus Sugino rings are a significant improvement. So, you may only get it so good with that combo.