right. this is the ds so no need to track down a reverse threaded thing. as long as upside down bolts work, which i think they should
youtube and bicycle marketing tells me that you are insane to be riding a 12 year old bike so i’d just throw the whole thing away
6 Likes
probably a dumb suggestion but are you turning it in the right direction?
1 Like
I’m pretty sure it is a standard BB, (non Italian/french). I always tell myself “UFO”. Undo Forward, as in towards the front direction of the bike. My experience with the other kind is always that I have issues keeping them tight, without loctite.
yeah you could use an impact gun on the bolt, and be simultaneously tightening the bolt+nut clamping force and loosening the cup in the frame
Isn’t tightening the bolt going to be a bit like holding the lid if the jam jar too tight as you try to unscrew it? I do have an old manual impact driver for screw driver attachment only.
Ha ha. The other side is seized too. I will throw some magic mix down the seat post and let it soak for a few days.
1 Like
no because the bolt is only clamping the cup and not touching the frame
1 Like
yes this is possible with some bolthead / cup combinations
you want the bolt to be big, but the head/nut should only be touching the flat/thin center of the cup wall
if it’s so big that it touches a curved corner area like a ball bearing race, tightening the bolt can start increasing the outer diameter of the cup
but there’s probably a way to do that on purpose that fractures the cup into pieces, like the inverse of a nut splitter
wonder if you could hole saw through the cups and get the spindle out that way
1 Like
worst case scenario you get stuck with a VO repair BB right?
oh maybe they don’t make those anymore. might have been pre-igor. sun lite still sells non-sun lite brand thread together square taper bbs tho.
@igor when did the brand change hands?
I’d just get a big nut welded onto it. The heat will help break everything loose.
tarck is now fully invested, so you owe it to the community to extract that BB or die in the attempt. 
7 Likes
WW @Orloved D
2 Likes
What am I welding a big nut onto?
This is sounding like a bit of an @Orloved Saga
A recap.
I actually like @EndpointBraden initial suggestions of cutting the seized drive side cup out, because it’s alluminium. But I could also imagine all three bits just remaining bonded in there.
Anyway, the NDS is also seized in place, so there won’t be a hacksaw blade going through there yet. Its currently soaking in a mixture of acetone and fork fluid.
I already have a screw-into-itself square taper BB on my Geoffrey Butler and it’s been great. But I still have to get this one out, and hopefully won’t need one. Probably cheaper to toss the frame.
If I get around to the stage where I apply heat, what am I using, a hair drier or a paint stripper? Remember the frame is carbon.
In the meantime, how the hell can I make my B-17 frame straight again? Its a very awkward thing.
1 Like
might want to try drain cleaner (lye), assuming it’s stuck due to crabon vs aluminum galvanic corrosion
3 Likes
I haven’t had much success realigning brooks rails. You can get replacement frames for them for not too much money, but riveting them back together poses a challenge. We sell people the frames and refer them to a local cobbler for installation.
1 Like
Thanks. Yep. I looked it over a year ago when I did it, seemed like getting the right rivets was a real pain in the ass too.
Cheers, it certainly is. Ok. How careful do I have to be with that stuff? Will it eat the carbon, or eat the aluminum? How long can I leave it in there for ?