Say it ain't so: The Assploded Bike Parts Picture Thread.

Cetma? Wald? Honestly the big Velo Orange and Soma and others that mount to the dropout area seem to hold up fine (or do we know of them breaking too?)

I believe the key difference is that these newer platform racks are attaching midway up the fork leg. BITD you had:

  1. Small front bag supports, which were essentially small racks but only for small rando bags and sometimes used with decaleurs.
  2. Porteur-style platform racks which had struts down to the dropout eyelet area. That kind of design puts less stress on the fork crown attachment.

Here’s a bunch of older platform racks.
http://www.blackbirdsf.org/courierracing/velos.html

Only one bike on that page has rack struts that are mid-fork. The 1950’s singer, and it is specifically called out as a “light duty” rack. I’m not sure how common that was. At any rate, notice there are two struts that wrap to a plate on the backside of the fork crown, which seems like a nice robust design.
http://www.blackbirdsf.org/courierracing/singer_1950.html

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The Haulin Colin rack is by far the best and burliest three point mid fork rack ever made. The crown attachment is a big ass threaded tube and a big ass bolt.


Now that I’ve made this post it’ll probably break on my way to work tomorrow, but I’d expect that the bolt not the rack would be the weak point.

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I suppose Rusty-proof might be a bridge too far for contemporary design and materials

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Good point. Porteur racks what mount near the drop-out seem to have fewer problems. I ran the Wald Giant Basket for a period and while it was super sketchy with a bunch of weight in it, it never seemed in danger of exploding (but again, not Rusty)

I feel like Mash should sell the tang from their rack separately, that thing looks sturdy as hell.

Yeah that thing is yuuuge! @Blakey don’t you have one of the MASH racks? Anyone else?

Yes, it’s a thicc Boi. I also have custom legs to attach it at the endpoint mid fork eyelets.

I bought one for a wifebiek it is thick and not hard so you can still flex it enough to get shit level. It’s 1/4” mild steel.

We ended up using a burly tang on the current racks for this exact reason. It comes with a weight penalty though.

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I think that penalty is probably worth it to avoid getting a reverse bates diadrant fork

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Looks like the tang is what saved that person from losing some teeth

My orcrack does this around the crown loop thing using a Sheldon nut. The strut bolts on the fork legs are in shear, I guess, and they’d be the weak points. Neat rack.

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but tell me more about dat bike

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if I have orc build me a rack it will definitely be that style

I’ve PYB’ed it a bunch of times. Old Titan-Star wiggle bike with a custom low trail Dreesens fork. Lemme see if I can summon a photo.

Yeah my orc rack attaches behind the crown. I’m going to attempt making my first rack soon and it’s definitely being mounted behind the crown.

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So wait: you had to take the fork off to attach the rack?

I mean, I ain’t mad at it…

I had to do that with a similar wraparound JimBlackburn rack on the tarckyon, as even the wiggle in the rack design didn’t clear the canti studs.

that rack looks like the half moon portion could be manoeuvred up the fork if the brake was removed though?

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Yeah on my Blackburn just had to remove the front wheel to get the rack on.