IRC Bokens then tell me if they’re good.
Cush Core gravel my dude.
I would think the boken doublecross would be better suited for what I need it for.
Here’s a neat article on velonews on the topic of rolling resistance:
Discusses breakpoint pressure at length.
Late pass, but installed some thunderbutts on my Rock Lobster and put a big enough hole in the front that it needed a pair of plugs to seal up. Has held air for a few weeks now, should probably throw a bunch of glue or something on the plugs to make sure they hold. Brand new tires smdh
these data were produced with athletes all having very low body fat percentage and therefore, lower hysteresis than most normal people!
Now there’s something I’ve never thought about
I am currently dieting to reduce my rolling resistance
Nope, that’s not how it works.
It’ll reduce your hysteresis which changes the break point. Who knows whether that goes up or down? Up, I’m guessing. Now I’m trying to imagine the resonant frequency of someone’s fat deposits and how that influences things. Not something I thought I’d ever be considering.
Ultimately, though, there’s a coefficient of friction at play which is influenced by the weight of the system. Also the potential reduction in frontal area will yield an aero benefit.
Yes I understand what you are saying but at a constant pressure more body fat = more RR
I would think that higher body fat would reduce your tire pressure breakpoint. Lower pressure less body jiggling.
does rim deflection play a part?
frame material?
how does the resonance of jiggly booties make higher pressure less good?
Gives a new meaning to the phrase “turdly butts”
Do runnyarse extralite tubeless tires still have a bad rep? Buddy of mine has them blowing off his WTB rims at an admittedly too-high pressure of 50 psi.
I would think the resonance of anyone’s body regardless of size/density is much less impactful and consistent than the resonance of the bike as a system, although the latter may experience damping effects that vary with rider weight
yes. everything about this is wrong.
No tubeless gravel/all road tire of any brand should blow off a rim at 50psi. I don’t give a shit what the intended use is. Blowoffs are caused by either bad design or bad QC (assuming the tire was seated correctly, of course), sometimes on the part of the rim manufacturer, but usually the fault of the tire manufacturer.
Also I bet the max psi stamped into the rubber is higher. A small percentage of nerds know that’s not actually a correct rating but there it is, stamped into the sidewall where the end sheet can easily read it.
I used to be a Runny enthusiast but they truly do suck in multiple ways and, as far as I can see from the available data, they have no RR advantages over other tires and they certainly aren’t more durable then other tires. So the question is why anyone would ever use a poorly quality controlled, average RR, poor durability tire that is very difficult to install tubeless.
I’ve long abandoned the idea that rolling resistance means much of anything. Yeah you don’t want a turd on those charts, but I think a lot of it is correlation. On the other hand I do think that weight plays a large part in how a tire will feel. And reens rule the weight category. Jan’s tires also have paper thin sidewalls, which is what makes them suck at so many things except how goooood they feel.
Note: I haven’t bought tires in like 3 years.
Like any variable in isolation, weight or rolling resistance can definitely be graphed and all that, and the resulting presentation will probably make some tires look way better than others. I suspect that if you’re riding at a steady pace on a smooth surface, a heavy-ish tire with low rolling resistance will feel pretty good, but if you’re riding on mixed surfaces with a lot of stop/start and short steep climbs, low weight might contribute more to your opinion of the tire. But if you’re riding mixed surface, you probably want a tire with some tread pattern, so it starts to get a little apples and oranges, right?
And of course with RH tires, it’s worth considering how much they weigh out of the box vs once they’ve had their mandatory bucket of sealant run through them.
I enjoy skidding and being a general goof too much to run that $$$ of tires on my bikes.
tube in my reens an they ride so nice i just keep throwing money at the guy
Yeah when it comes to knobby tires I almost completely disregard weight and look at tread pattern, compound, sidewall behavior.
For slicks though… I’ll die on reens (because they will explode at an inopportune moment–though that somehow hasn’t happened over like a decade of riding them). Sealant seems to not make a big difference in feel, either because I’ve slowly made mine weigh more over a long period of time or because most of the special sauce is the paper-thin sidewalls and the sealant mostly pools in the tread.