Souplesse Casings and Bike Soup - The Tire Thread

If I’m using the tube method, should I need to pump the tires past the rec. max pressure (60psi) to get the bead to set? I’ve gone to 60 already and haven’t heard any pops.

I’d say no. Not sure beads snap the same with tubes. Deflate and see if they stay seated. Then break one side, put valve back in, and give it a go.

I tried very hard to get TB14s to be tubeless and nothing I tried worked.

Poop. That’s what I was afraid of.

I wonder if anyone else has experience… I will say that the Compass tires fit really, really tightly on the TB14. What tape did you use?

Yeah… 40ish should be sufficient. Maybe I’ll try it.

i liked about 40-45psi on my 650b-42mm compass tires. not sure 40psi is gonna be to your liking, but it might be close…

I’ve ridden the old Jack Browns comfortably around 40-45 on the front, 45-55 on the rear. Rear is mounted with a tube already, I can try converting the front and seeing what kind of pressure it’ll take.

Is it standard practice to use Stan’s rim strips? Just tape it up and YOLO?

I was addressing the people talking about pumps

I seem to recall general consensus being that they weren’t tubeless friendly.

I’ve used closed cell window seal foam to build up the rim bead a few times on non tubeless rims with good success

Get in on that latex tubes if your want that magic carpet ride feel, it’s definitely not worth fuckxing with trying to tubeless the TB-14.

In run my pair with Grand bois cerf’s (700x28) and michelin’s latex tubes and that supple enough.

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If you want to tinker with your wheel setup, don’t waste time kludging a road tubeless setup (higher pressures = less forgiving of everything) and lace on new rims instead.

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@heath, I used the tarck approved 3M strapping tape. It’s in the database.

…but I love my tarckbear rims.

So, I’d like to try running these tires tubeless, and that means I’ll need new rims, and I don’t want to build something with rim brakes in this day and age, so that means a new frame and fork that for dicks, and then I’ll need a groupset and well, I might as well get all new everything else and then I’m N+1 and I don’t even ride very much anymore.

This is how it starts.

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Oh in spirit yeah totally I’m currently deciding between unseizing a seatpost and buying an entire new bike.

On the other hand de-stickered DTr460 are like $30 and hold up well for me as road rims, and I weigh 210lbs and ride on the finest? “roads” in the mid-atlantic.

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tell me more?

I think that’s all I know. When I bought a pair they were that much, and earlier this year I bought a prebuilt wheelset fashioned from those rims laced to 11sp 105 hubs for like, $250, which if my “math” is “correct” means that they’re trading at about the same rate now.

Basically: if you have a 700c rim brake bike that you want to keep in service but also you’re saving up for a newer discier bike, its a good rim to throw on. They also have easily removed stickers, which leaves you with a visually unobtrusive black rim

ah okay, i thought by de-stickered you meant someone was selling them unbranded for less. nevermind!

Oh geez yeah no I would have absolutely no capacity to sleuth that out. I just meant that I like them because they’re cheap and I appear to be blessed/cursed with a few rim brake bikes that are quite long lived.

The 50/50 mixture of acetone and fork oil in an inverted frame worked for me, after a week. Then I wedged the saddle tween some house poles and used the frame as a lever. Prepping it for sale today actually.

Oh yeah totally, I’ve got a can of liquid wrench that I’ve clearly not used enough of. I need to take the hydraulics off and invert it as you say, then find something that I can jam it in to torque it